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Hello ESP.
I changed from 2.77:1 to 3.23:1 just recently. The XD Fairmont Ghia is a different car to drive. Really loves the lower gears. The RS thermostat certainly played a part in keeping the temperature down.
I do stop/start driving everyday and the addition of the 6 blade flex fan, high flow mechanical water pump from Flowkooler really helped too. Sounds like the thermo fans work very well. Going to upgrade to an aluminum radiator soon. Will need to once the 400 Cleveland and AOD tranny go in. Going to have more heat, and will need to get rid of more heat!
Cheers
Craig
 

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ESP Man
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xbgs351 said:
Where do you suggest you can get a Dayco unit for less? Repco charged me $20. Ricebarn and Supercheap wouldn't know if their backside was on fire.
See posts # 35 & 50 which state $20 & $17 respectively

$25 is 25% more than $20 and a shit load more than $17

Generally I find Repco pretty reasonable on prices but only use them when I can't get something I want in a hurry from my local privately owned parts shop
 

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If you have no restrictor plate you can block thermostat bypass at the water pump with sheet metal over the gasket surface.
 

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ESP said:
You could also try the locally modified ECOTRANS waterpumps. These are the anticavitation style pumps with the modified bronze impellers. They also have the aluminium housing. The flow better and have a far greater tendency to cavitate which will also aid the balancing effect of the RS thermostat.

I have one of these pumps on my car and they work well.
ESP,
Where would I get one of these ECOTRANS waterpumps from? I have strange overheating problems & will try anything to solve the problem.
 

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V8 GT pilot
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Fat F100 said:
ESP,
Where would I get one of these ECOTRANS waterpumps from? I have strange overheating problems & will try anything to solve the problem.

As quoted by pracy earlier :

ECOtrans 23 Webb Rd Airport West, Victoria, Australia 3042 +03 9335 4344
 

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Thanks ESP, I'll contact them.
I bought one of those Dayco DT66A Thermostats & found that it does work a little better. I still have the brass restrictor in the block. I did get slugged $27 from Repco Newcastle for it though.
 

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351 XE on LPG
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743 Posts
xdclevo said:
I spent several years running no thermostat, but got sick of it taking so long for my motor to warm up, and i live in Cairns. Also, after i stripped my motor that only did about 20000 km, it had a decent lip on the top of all the bores.
My last motor with the thermostat still had all the hone marks after 20000 km.
I have had no luck with the Tridon high flow 180deg thermostat and it ran way too hot. I ended up using some cheap shitty brand(non high flow) 160 deg and all works perfectly. I ran my brand new motor/cam in for 30 minutes at 2500 rpm last weekend and it didnt get over 190 deg, but i do have a good rad.
XDClevo, are you saying that a motor that runs too cold will wear out faster?

If that is the case, can anyone tell me why that is - because I thought that the hotter a piece of metal got the more it swelled up and the softer the material became, therefore more prone to wear. Pistons swelling up in the bore due to more heat would apply more pressure to the walls and therefore also more wear?
 

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V8 GT pilot
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Rhett said:
XDClevo, are you saying that a motor that runs too cold will wear out faster?

If that is the case, can anyone tell me why that is - because I thought that the hotter a piece of metal got the more it swelled up and the softer the material became, therefore more prone to wear. Pistons swelling up in the bore due to more heat would apply more pressure to the walls and therefore also more wear?

I think its got to do with the motor running richer mixtures when its cold. The richer petrol mixture has a tendency to wash away all the lubricants from the metal surfaces ( read bores ) which then allows for greater metal to metal contact.................................

I could be ( and probably are ) wrong here..........................
 

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shaynet said:
See posts # 35 & 50 which state $20 & $17 respectively

$25 is 25% more than $20 and a shit load more than $17

Generally I find Repco pretty reasonable on prices but only use them when I can't get something I want in a hurry from my local privately owned parts shop
Repco are becoming more like supercheap now. Less parts and more accesserice. ANd they are employing the same quality of staff, eg: "what's a rear axle oil seal?"
 

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xcgxl said:
Repco are becoming more like supercheap now. Less parts and more accesserice. ANd they are employing the same quality of staff, eg: "what's a rear axle oil seal?"
A few months ago I went into the local repco and asked for a rotor button for an XC electronic distributor. "

Newbie staff member: "That's a Holden isn't it".
Me: "Ford"
Newbie staff member: "Oh that's right, early 90's isn't it?".
Me: Icy stare

One of the older guys that normally serves me came from out the back, and had the rotor button in my hand before the bufoon even found it in the catalouge. The older guy just looked down his nose through his glasses at the newbie. You could could see he was thinking the same thing as me.
 

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Whats traction?
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xbgs351 said:
A few months ago I went into the local repco and asked for a rotor button for an XC electronic distributor. "

Newbie staff member: "That's a Holden isn't it".
Me: "Ford"
Newbie staff member: "Oh that's right, early 90's isn't it?".
Me: Icy stare

One of the older guys that normally serves me came from out the back, and had the rotor button in my hand before the bufoon even found it in the catalouge. The older guy just looked down his nose through his glasses at the newbie. You could could see he was thinking the same thing as me.
I hear your pain there. Don't ever try getting parts for an old car like my galaxie. I took my old rotor button in to see if we could find one even similar so I could make a mutant. After half an hour I gave up and walked away in disgust (and with no parts either).

They just don't make parts guys like they used to.
 

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I have walked out of my local Repco so many times in disgust I have lost count. They actually try to be helpfull and make phone calls and stuff for me but this only highlights how little they actually know. Almost 20 years ago now a mate of mine left school and did an apprenticeship as a "spare parts interpreter" at the local Ford dealer, (I actually ended up buying my GXL from him). It is a recognised trade, I found this amusing at the time but I can see the point of it. I wonder what qualifications you need to work in Repco? I have emailed their customer service department to complain but did not get a reply. I miss the old guys at the Repco where I used to live. I am going there on SUnday so I might pay them a visit and se eif I can get me a brake hose.
 

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too low a water temp increases cylinder wall wear as the pistons and rings may not reach there correct operating temp they are designed to run at. ESP is correct about the fuel not being homogenized at a low water temp. I run my bracket race xc at 180 water temp with out any dramas, even at the last meet (N.S.W champs) with the air temp at 40c the water temp didnt go past 190 degrees.
I work for Super Cheap so please dont assume everyone there is of room temp IQ
 

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Buff XC
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Okay, so considering i don't wanna run my clevo too cold, should I put in a DAYCO unit in when its running at 'bout 80 celcius standstill. still running a stock unit.

it tends to get much hotter round town when smoking commies though, so probably worth a change.

Great thread guys, keep up the good work :coo:
 

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Buff XC
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fitted a dayco DT66A to the clevo over the weekend and to my suprise...it actually runs 5-10 degrees celcius hotter :AAHHH:

My restrictor plate is still there and everything is in order! Only thing I noticed is that the old thremostat didn't have that thicker lip around the hat that the DAYCO has. Therefore a Windsor thermostat? shouldn't that have caused overheating problems? Any suggestions guys.....
 

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V8 GT pilot
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Pilch said:
fitted a dayco DT66A to the clevo over the weekend and to my suprise...it actually runs 5-10 degrees celcius hotter :AAHHH:

My restrictor plate is still there and everything is in order! Only thing I noticed is that the old thremostat didn't have that thicker lip around the hat that the DAYCO has. Therefore a Windsor thermostat? shouldn't that have caused overheating problems? Any suggestions guys.....

Was the old thermostat a "180" temp rated unit.
Was the old thermostat stable......or did it fluctuate.

How are you taking your temp reading ???
 

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Whats traction?
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Pilch said:
fitted a dayco DT66A to the clevo over the weekend and to my suprise...it actually runs 5-10 degrees celcius hotter :AAHHH:

My restrictor plate is still there and everything is in order! Only thing I noticed is that the old thremostat didn't have that thicker lip around the hat that the DAYCO has. Therefore a Windsor thermostat? shouldn't that have caused overheating problems? Any suggestions guys.....
Do not worry about it running hotter. As I said before the Windsor thermostat I had in mine caused the engine to run very, very cold until it had to work hard or got stuck in traffic. Once it hit halfway the needle went pretty much straight for the red and it was nearly impossible to cool it after that.

A proper clevo thermostat will keep the engine temp more consistent wether its freezing cold or stinking hot outside :)
 

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Buff XC
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the old unit was a 180 farenheit. And it was stable.....although months ago it ran 2 bars above cold on the guage, and lately only bar above the cold.

Measured temp before and after by submerging a thermometer into the water. This was after a 10min cruise and than 30secs of stationery revving in 35* heat.

I noticed it warms up a little quicker with the DAYCO too, so maybe there was some water escaping through and allowing extra flow = lower temp???

I'm not worried about overheating, just like to know why it has happened.
 
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