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Whats traction?
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Pilch said:
the old unit was a 180 farenheit. And it was stable.....although months ago it ran 2 bars above cold on the guage, and lately only bar above the cold.

Measured temp before and after by submerging a thermometer into the water. This was after a 10min cruise and than 30secs of stationery revving in 35* heat.

I noticed it warms up a little quicker with the DAYCO too, so maybe there was some water escaping through and allowing extra flow = lower temp???

I'm not worried about overheating, just like to know why it has happened.
Yep mine did the same thing. And yes, too cold is a problem as well.

Mine would take quite a while to get hot, crusing at 100kph would have my temp 1 bar off cold which is just too cold.My problems happened at the drag days and also the easternats. As soon as the temp got to 1/2, no amount of thermofans+electric waterpump could get it back down. I don't have that problem with the proper clevo thermostat. Even though it gets up to 1/2 quickly (1/2 is where Ford intended it to be by the way) it hasn't passed 3/4 even stuck in traffic on a 36 degree day and only goes up to 3/4 for a second then returns to 1/2.

The 190 degree in the XE used to go to about 7/8ths of the guage before it opened... so 3/4 guage would seen to be correct for a 180, so until it passes 3/4 for at least a minute I don't panic anymore.
 

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Buff XC
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I am very aware of potential wear when running to cold as well, but every time I ask what is the best temp I never get a direct answer??? anyone wish to answer?

An engineering mate told me, generally, as close as possible to boiling temp, without it actually boiling. It's low 80's now, and was mid 70's. I spose the trouble is the closer you run the motor to boiling temp, the less margin you have for temp increases!!!

I'll stick with the DAYCO. oh, and not sure what brand.....i'll check again but all i saw on it was 180.
 

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Whats traction?
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Ford only ever offered a 180 from the factory... so i'd say it would be sufficient.

I have my temp needle hovering somewhere around 1/2 which again is where Ford intended it.

I'd want it nowhere near boiling point.... you need some head room (in case you were to flog the car for 15minutes straight then have to stop. Read: easternats) otherwise you'll have the OVERFLOW BOTTLE FOUNTAIN (tm) on public display!
 

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Pilch said:
I am very aware of potential wear when running to cold as well, but every time I ask what is the best temp I never get a direct answer??? anyone wish to answer?

An engineering mate told me, generally, as close as possible to boiling temp, without it actually boiling. It's low 80's now, and was mid 70's. I spose the trouble is the closer you run the motor to boiling temp, the less margin you have for temp increases!!!

I'll stick with the DAYCO. oh, and not sure what brand.....i'll check again but all i saw on it was 180.
If i could stay between 170 and 180 all the time, i would be very happy. 180 on my standard XD dash is right up in the red, so i hope it is out and not my Auto Meter gauge. I have to run a 160 degree t/stat, and it barely stays under 180 degrees. Then again, i spose my motor is stil running in, but i would expect cooler.
 

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Whats traction?
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xdclevo said:
If i could stay between 170 and 180 all the time, i would be very happy. 180 on my standard XD dash is right up in the red, so i hope it is out and not my Auto Meter gauge. I have to run a 160 degree t/stat, and it barely stays under 180 degrees. Then again, i spose my motor is stil running in, but i would expect cooler.
With a 180 degree stat I wouldn't expect it to stay anywhere under 185-190. Remember, 180 is only the openeing temprature of the thermostat. The actual water temp in the block, by the time the cool water flushes through, is likely to up around 200-210 (or so). If your running anti-boil then your water boil point should be around 125C.... so 200F (93C) isn't anything to worry about.
 

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xdc351 said:
With a 180 degree stat I wouldn't expect it to stay anywhere under 185-190. Remember, 180 is only the openeing temprature of the thermostat. The actual water temp in the block, by the time the cool water flushes through, is likely to up around 200-210 (or so). If your running anti-boil then your water boil point should be around 125C.... so 200F (93C) isn't anything to worry about.
My temp pickup is right on the exit from the block, about 2" passed the thermostat, which measures the hottest water pumped straight from the block..........it measures exactly what the thermostat is rated at (or slightly above), ie: 180-185.

I don't think the water in the engine would be getting up to 200-210. It definitley wouldn't cool 15-25* as it exits the thermostat housing.
 

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Buff XC
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the old thermostat says 180, than below that 7049. No brand name though. Considering it now runs mid 80C's normal driving conditions and won't move when stationery it should be fine. Will be giving it a big workout 2nite when cruzing with mates and going holden hunting. Hopefully temp will remain stable.

Crises over! Oh, and my guage is reading 1/3, and water temp in the radiator when stationery couldn't be any more than about 3-5C cooler than in the block (my opinion).
 

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Whats traction?
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TruBlu351 said:
My temp pickup is right on the exit from the block, about 2" passed the thermostat, which measures the hottest water pumped straight from the block..........it measures exactly what the thermostat is rated at (or slightly above), ie: 180-185.

I don't think the water in the engine would be getting up to 200-210. It definitley wouldn't cool 15-25* as it exits the thermostat housing.
I'm talking under extreme conditions here. I don't get too hot either under normal driving, in fact my 'stat opens maybe once every 20-30mins or so on the highway because of the small hole I made in it (required for LPG before all the anti-hole freaks load up their flamers).

But when really giving it a good thrashing (30mins at high RPM through some twisty mountains) the water temp climbs pretty high as it flushes through... although the in-block temp pickups tend to read slightly higher in those conditions. All i'm trying to say is its nothing to worry about. The temp will generally jump up a little bit as the thermostat opens and flushes the hot water out of the block, only start to worry if it doesn't come back down!
 

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i got a dayco stat from repco but my part number is DT14C-BP and on the back of the packet it states that this stat is for "most v8 models", but nowhere do i see (on the packet) a listing for the DT66A model. Whats the deal with this?
 

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boss351c said:
i got a dayco stat from repco but my part number is DT14C-BP and on the back of the packet it states that this stat is for "most v8 models", but nowhere do i see (on the packet) a listing for the DT66A model. Whats the deal with this?
When i was at Repco the other day, i asked for a look at the stat. It too was some crappy looking thing that wasn't the one from this thread. I didn't bother aftet that.
 

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D.T.A
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i contacted dayco and they told me that there is a difference between the 2 stats and that they currently have the dt66a model on order and should be available in a weeks time, which should then be ordered thru repco. I was told that these stats come from overseas.
 

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351 XE on LPG
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I know this is a very old thread, but if any Cleveland owners are looking for a DAYCO DT66A thermostat (180F), I just bought one on eBay for AU$36 (including delivery). This special price reverts back to AU$44 from Sep 18th. Just FYI.
 
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