Ford Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Tip of the day..

I thought I would post some tricks that I have learned and used over the last 10 years as I think about them. Todays trick:

For those of you that have manual transmission cars (and those of you that have converted them) there is one part that just does not seem to be available, the clutch pedal rubber stop.clutch pedal rubber stop ! These little buggers should cost like $.02 to make, but no one does. If yours is gone or mangled all you have to deal with for the life of your car is the "clak, clak, clak" of the pedal vibrating and metal on metal contact every time you let the clutch out. Try this. Take a 67-68 adjustable hood stop (cost $2), add some big washers and a nut, presto! Hoodstop becomes clutch stop! Email for any additional questions or post your own!
 

·
Classic Mustang Member
Joined
·
92 Posts
Chad,

This is a great idea!!!

I'm a c-4 kinda guy....But I'm sure to pass this on to a few of the locals with that anoying sound.

Thanks!!!:D
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, heres another.


How many of you have wanted a tach , but were not willing to pay the $$$ for a factory in dash style and didn't want to put one clamped to the steering wheel or the dash?

Also I will bet you have a big hole where the clock should be, give you any ideas??? Sunpro (lower quality gauge brand) makes a 3 inch tach that fits perfectly into the clock spot. Just remove the instrument cluster, remove the blockoff peice, take the tach and remove the front bezel and glass. Now the soft outerhousing will fit kinda snug into the clock spot. The only this left to do is support it in the back. I used a coat hanger that was wrapped through the holes from the blockoff screws. DONE!

Reassemble.

You may also wish to paint over the sunpro or whatever brand name info may be on yours BEFORE you put it into the dash. I just used a flat black paint pen. You could get it more fancy and use semi gloss/semi matte spraypaint.

The finished product is almost undetectable. Most people don't even realize I have "messed" with the configuration. Works fine for all but all out race applications. I run my car at the track once a month and have never had a problem seeing the road and the tach at the same time!

Cost: $25-30
Time: 2 hours
Level of difficulty:2 (1-10, 1 being spark plugs, 10 being engine swap)
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Next tip!

Next daily tip.

SMALL BLOCK MOTOR MOUNT PROBLEMS!

I tried for years to make these $20 ones from Discount auto parts, NAPA, Pep boys, and Autozone work. I figured it was my motor that was weird. I would drill them out, bend the ears and pry them into place. Some would be better than others (from the same vendor), but still they all sucked.

FINALLY I SAW THE LIGHT!

FORD PARTS!

The motor mounts are still available from ford, for about $80....pricey I know. But, they fit PERFECTLY, the first time. Just jack the motor up, bolt up to the motor drop it down and the frame holes line up, problem solved! Now if I can only get a brake line that fits.....
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just a couple of cleaning tips, one for your car, one for you....

Ever had oil under the hood and engine compartment that messes up everything, but don't have a good way to clean it. Sure, plenty of scrubbing helps, but there has to be a better way right.... Try this, use hand cleaner! You know, the kind that you rub in and wipe off. Don't get the kind with pumice or any kind of abrasives in it, jus the regular kind. It cleans real strong, washes with water, and just a little wax protects the area when you are done!

part 2

Ever found yourself in the bathroom after cleaning up for the day. Washed yourself in the hand sink in the shop, taken a good long shower, and its 5 min until you are suppost to be leaving for a dinner date with your mate (but you are running late cause you just had to see if that last idea you had would work). Suddenly you look in the mirror and realize you missed a big dirty, greasy spot on your arm (or back, or face, or neck). What do you do??? Return to the shop (across the house or across town)? Since you are late already this would not be a good idea! Just try that toothpaste you have laying there! Pastes work best, just a little on some tp and rub away. Obviously if you have the better half of a grease gun on your forehead it won't help, but for those stubborn areas of "dull black" it works great! Just rinse the residue off and presto, you are back from the dog house!
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Got some nasty bolts?

Ok, we all have them. Nasty old bolts, eyesores to say the least. Keep in mind I use these techniques on my driver, street car and I don't always worry that every bolt and screw is correct to 1967. For the street you want something that will look good and require little effort to get there.

There are 2 ways to go about this.
1. paint
Painting with the spray can is probably the thing we all started with, but how do you paint all your bolts without having multi colors fingers?? and what do you do with them to dry? Fear not! It is a cheap and easy solution. Got any old 2x4s or 1x4s around? Just take one and drill a bunch of 1/4 and 1/2 inch holes in it. should be about 2 feet long. Insert the bolts into the board and spray away! If you need to do a board for nuts, just buy some small wooden dowling. Drill holes that are just a little smaller than the dowling and allow the dowling to stick about 1/2 inch above the board. Now with these setups they are easy to move, easy to paint and will be ready when you are!

2. paint (the kind you can't see)
Always keep a can of clear spraypaint around. There are times when little bolts or hood hinges just look better natural, but you know 6 months down the road the rain and weather is going to get to them. Just hit them with the clear coat! If you are worried that they look a little glossy you can pick up a satin clearcoat too. Those MCA judges will be able to tell, but no one else will (and they won't be looking at your rusting stuff either!)!
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
glad you liked them! I am finding it odd that I can help others with this hobby now. I started at 16 and knew nothing. I still feel like I know nothing, but every once in a while I find someone who is struggling with something I have already delt with. I had a lot of very nice people take me, a 16 yo kid with a desire, intrest, but no money or knowledge and help me out. I had guys give me real breaks on prices on their parts and spend entirely too much time explaining something that I should have been able to get the first time they told me. Now I get to give back.:cool:
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Shoulder belts, with no damage or modifications!

Shoulder belts, with no damage or modifications!


You only thought it was a dream didn't you, 1 hour install time, no perment modifications to the car. What more could you ask for? Heres the skinny....

This works better with lowback style seats than the 69 up ones, but it will work with those too.

I started out with a set of repo 66 shelby lap belts from branda (3" racing style). I then picked up a set of Simpson "H" style shoulder belts (you see where I am going here?). I had to special order some big eyelets (like the shelby belts mount with in the front.) Remove old rear seat belt bolts. Bolt them in with the eyelets and use disconnects on the shoulder belts (come witht the eyelets). Now you have strong decent sholder belts. If tightened down should keep you from hitting the steering wheel and windsheild (also the are good for freaking out your friends). If you need to load into the back seat, just lay them on the floor in the back or disconnect them all together.

Ok, so you say they have that simpson patch on them and the red tread runners on either side. You aready know the answer here. Pull that patch off and use a sharpy marker to color the red. When you are done then match the front shelby belts almost perfectly!
 
J

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
bolt painting

i use a peice of styrofoam to hold the bolts for me while i paint them.
 
K

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Great ideas! Ahh the voice of experience.......

67 F/B with a 351W for the Mr.
93 LX 4 banger Convert for the Mrs. ( which WILL get converted)
 

·
Vintage Mustang Member
Joined
·
9 Posts
Re: Next tip!

Hi!

I was browsing through this thread (great ideas by the way) and I saw this message. I have to ask: do you know if this works for 1973 mustangs? All my research shows that they use a motor mount unique to that year and that no one - not even Ford - makes them anymore. The only ones available that I can find are $250 each (NOS)! I did find a '72 in the junk yard a few weeks back and yanked the motor mount pads from it, but since my motor is mounted OK for now, I will wait until I break a mount to see if they will fit and accept '64-'72 mounts.

BTW: right now I have one 1973 mount - old and scuzzy - and a new 1972 mount, and it fits, barely. When I rebuilt the motor a couple months ago, I tried two new Lakewood mounts but they ended up being about 1 inch outside (too wide) of the motor mount bosses on the block.

mfp4073 said:
Next daily tip.

SMALL BLOCK MOTOR MOUNT PROBLEMS!

I tried for years to make these $20 ones from Discount auto parts, NAPA, Pep boys, and Autozone work. I figured it was my motor that was weird. I would drill them out, bend the ears and pry them into place. Some would be better than others (from the same vendor), but still they all sucked.

FINALLY I SAW THE LIGHT!

FORD PARTS!

The motor mounts are still available from ford, for about $80....pricey I know. But, they fit PERFECTLY, the first time. Just jack the motor up, bolt up to the motor drop it down and the frame holes line up, problem solved! Now if I can only get a brake line that fits.....
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Re: Re: Next tip!

Sorry, don't know about those later year ones, but when you find out let us know!
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Ok, finally a new one. Clutches....DO NOT MESS WITH THE REBUILT ONES FROM THE CHAIN STORES. The provide very little grip, wear out very fast and are prone to chatter. I have had disks completely come apart on me. Once I upgraded to an aftermarket one (I am using RAM) they are so much better and last seemingly forever. I did not go for the newer style, but instead just used the 3 finger type. Also, I have been so much happier since I went with steel flywheels. The wear much slower and you can turn them more. (iron 3-4 turns, steel 4-6). They do cost more, but you get that money back in how well they last. I had one on for 2 years and the surface was still smooth as glass. I am using ford parts for that one.
 

·
Vintage Mustang Member
Joined
·
6 Posts
Cool thread,

You can use a straw to help install your oil pump shaft, use a piece of wire (coat hanger) to push it out of the straw. Way better then droping it into your engine. You guys with modified engine that keep breaking the motor mounts, drill through the mount and place a couple bolts through it. Snug up the bolts and
your engine will stay were it belongs.

Regards,
BillGear
www.289mustang.com
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
some reference info on ford rearend sizes!

Ford Rear Dimensions
by Dave_C and the Fordnatics mailing list.
Here is a list of rear ends that I picked up some time ago on the Fordnatics mailing list.
These measurements are from flange to flange. Subtract 5" for bare housing length.

65-66 Mustang 57.25 inches
67-70 Mustang 59.25 inches
71-73 Mustang 61.25 inches
77-81 Versailles 58.50 inches
74 Maverick 8" 56.50 inches
75 Mustang II 8" 57.00 inches
67-73 Mustang, Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane 9" 59.25 inches to 61.25 inches
57-59 Ranchero and station wagon rears, 57.25 inches
66-77 Bronco 9", 58 inches
77-81 Granada/Versailles, 58 inches
67-71 Comet, Cougar, Mustang, Fairlane, 59.25 inches
71-73 Mustang, 61.25 inches
64 Falcon 58 inches
67 Cougar 60 inches
67 Fairlane 63.50 inches (coil springs)
72 Ford Van 3/4 ton 68 inches
73-86 65.25 inches
57-59 Ranchero and station wagon 57.25 iches (narrowest 9" housing)
66-77 Bronco 58 inches but has 5-on-5 1/2 inch diameter bolt circle
67-73 Torinos, Rancheros, Fairlanes 59.25 inches or 61.25 inches
67-71 Comets, Cougars, Fairlanes 59.25 inches

Where to find the 9" rear axle
67-73 medium and big block Mustangs and Cougars
66-71 Fairlanes, Torinos, Montegos, Comets, and other Ford intermediates
with big blocks
57-59 V8 Fords and Mercurys
77-81 Lincoln Versailles & Trucks

Type of 9" axle housings
67-73 Mustang/Cougar - light duty, thinnest housing material, small axle
bearings, 28 and 31 splines
57-68 passenger car and 1/2 ton truck - medium duty, stronger than Mustang
type, 28 and 31 splines
Ranchero/Torino - heavy duty thick wall housing, 3.25 inch diameter axle
tubes with flat tops
69-77 Galaxies (coils), Lincolns (coils), and late pickups (leaf)- 3.25
inch diameter all the way to the backing plate, coil housings have upper
control arm mount

How to recognize 9" housing centers
57 - no dimples, flat center band up the center of the rear cover, bottom
drain plug
58-59 - two dimples on back of housing, flat center band, some had drain holes
60-67 - two dimples, flat center band, oil level hole in back cover
63-77 Lincoln, LTD, Thunderbirds had 9.375 inch centers, housings were cut
away at the gasket surface for ring gear clearance, one curved rib at the front
top portion of differential. Strong, but no gears.

Types of 9" Axles
28 spline axles cannot be shortened and resplined (they're tapered)
Some can: 69-73 Mustang and Cougars have a straight 28 spline axle.
72 and earlier 31 spline axles have the ability to be shortened
73 and later 9" (big cars) have a 5-on-5 bolt circle and the axles cannot be
shortened
67-73 Mustang axles identified by wheel flange:
oval hole - 28 splines two large holes and counter sunk center - 31 splines
 

·
Forgotten
Joined
·
65 Posts
mfp4073 said:
Ok, heres another.


How many of you have wanted a tach , but were not willing to pay the $$$ for a factory in dash style and didn't want to put one clamped to the steering wheel or the dash?

Also I will bet you have a big hole where the clock should be, give you any ideas??? Sunpro (lower quality gauge brand) makes a 3 inch tach that fits perfectly into the clock spot. Just remove the instrument cluster, remove the blockoff peice, take the tach and remove the front bezel and glass. Now the soft outerhousing will fit kinda snug into the clock spot. The only this left to do is support it in the back. I used a coat hanger that was wrapped through the holes from the blockoff screws. DONE!
I did that to my '67 when I had it a few years ago.
The rally pack was too expensive & extremely cumbersome (and hard to see as well).
I just bent three short pieces of metal into a "z" to form tabs, and screwed those into the holes left by the "fake clock face" in the cluster.
Held it in there pretty well, just had to add a harnass connector to it so I could unplug it when I pulled the cluster out.
It even matched the factory lighting scheme in the dashboard.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
About this Discussion
23 Replies
10 Participants
Gearhead99
Ford Forums
Ford Forum is a community to discuss all things Ford. Check out our discussions on the Ford Escape, Mustang, Edge, F-150, Raptor, Explorer, Focus, Fusion, Fiesta and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top