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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys hows it goin.
Im a proud owner of a 2004 Mondeo TDCi,2nd hand on about 139k km.
Had it for a month or so and its quite the car.
Im having some issues regarding the start of the car and actually taking off in 1st gear.Now,I've been a driver for 7 years now,but this Mondeo is my first diesel car.So hints and tips are welcomed.
So heres my problem...I start up the car,up goes the rpm to 900 or a little over,clutch goes half way up,up to the biting point,in comes some throttle,we lift off as we should...aaand stall or idle...so we do this again with either more throttle and less clutch and vice versa...so either same thing happens,i choke the car,or we climb the rpm ladder with little to slow movement forward.Now this problem is occuring for the last week or so and ive chocked out a couple of times.Other times when im more "sassy" in a way with the feet movement car takes off smoothly as it should.
Now im not having any rpm sudden drops as Ive seen other had around the forums etc but ive read that engine parts need to be cleaned,sensors need to be checked etc and ive come to put my driving skills into question too.
Apart from the take off,car runs smoothly and like a tank so we are peaches there,but ive either scared my self into doubt and being too careful that i cause my own problems or theres something other to it.
Im planning on buying 1 of those diesel engine small particle remover fluids that you put in when youre fueling up just in case,sorta maintnence thing on my half.Aand to be honest the engine is pretty dirty,because previous owner had no trouble with the car that the hood hasnt been poped open over a year.
Now my questions
Do I need to clean something,double check something and if so where and how/im no grease monkey,im a doctor so help me out ok? :p /
Is it petrol based problem and do i need to change my gas station
Should i go back to driving school

Thanks
 

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I will have to ask the same old thing. Any codes. You may not have a CEL, but can be storing codes.

The other big thing I preach is that if you bought the vehicle off of a private seller, assume all maintenance items need to be done. I'm also skeptical of all dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What codes and CEL...educate me please. Also the guy who i bought it from is a friend of mine for many years and i was at the garage when oil filters and consumables were changed also the mechanic is a friend and he claimed its all good. Tell me how to verify n check the info you need so i can better explain the problem if there is one. Also id appreciate any tips n hints i might need for future and present refrence.
Thanks
 

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That model of car in Europe had a DMF ( DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL ) which was problematic and often changed for a solid flywheel .It MAY be an early sign of failure , especially if any noise /rattles .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I havent noticed any of those two problems yet. Is it fixable? Is it costly? Any clue?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also couldnt it be petrol based. It feels like it cloged or sth. Isnt it possible maybe particles are in the way of the fumes causing low rpm problem which vanish when i shift up at higher speed?
 

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CEL: Check Engine Light. The engine control module may be storing diagnostic codes cluing you in on what may be happening.

I'm not familiar with the turbo-diesel, my experience with diesels is in power generation, a whole different world. BUT, I did dig around on the net and two possible scenarios. First is a sticky waste gate. This might be a physical thing (binding) or a bad signal that corrects itself as it warms up.

The second sounds a little closer: you may have an injector going. Once the engine is warm, spray pattern is not as critical as when it's cold, also, as the injector heats up, it expands and ends up making a better spray.

For the waste gate, grab hold of the arm on the turbo and see if it moves freely, if it does check the vacuum pipe coming off it is connected and is not holed somewhere. This could also be an indication of a vacuum leak since the waste gate is controlled by vacuum.

For the injector: unfortunately, I don't know how to test with out a professional with the correct diagnostic equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok thanks . ill check those things asap. What about a flywheel. So far its almost at 140k kms and so far no trouble and also no replacement. Any handyman way of checking if its in order or not or i need to visit a garage.
Also can bad petrol cause any clotting thus leading to my problem?
 

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Think you will have to try and tie fault down to either engine or clutch related .The DMF should be replaced with a DMF kit which comprises of a clutch assembly also . That's if your car has this setup , sometimes varies in spec with different countries .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Problem fixed. MAF sensor was a little dirty. Took it off,test drived. All is good in the hood. I took it out,cleaned it and 12hrs later,drives smoothly. But CEL is on...supposedly it goes away right? After a few days driving? Or do i need to get it checked. Something with codes and the computer system I've been told
 
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