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My XD 351C (on gas) is not liking the warmer days, but I'm not sure if more airflow will help.

*puts on the noob hat*
Currently the radiator and stock fan seem to be doing a great job, in that a LOT of hot air comes off the radiator. I'm not sure of the science behind it, but it seems to me that blowing hot air into the engine bay is a bad thing.

The engine is tuned (although it needs colder spark plugs and leads, which I'll be getting shortly), the radiator is a new 3 core, the thermostat is new (82C). So will sucking more air through the radiator fix the problem?

I'd like to be able to use the aircon on hot days, as currently I'm in the ironic position of only being able to use the aircon on mild days, where winding down the window would suffice anyway.

-Truffles
 

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74 XB Fairmont
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Truffles said:
My XD 351C (on gas) is not liking the warmer days, but I'm not sure if more airflow will help.

*puts on the noob hat*
Currently the radiator and stock fan seem to be doing a great job, in that a LOT of hot air comes off the radiator. I'm not sure of the science behind it, but it seems to me that blowing hot air into the engine bay is a bad thing.

The engine is tuned (although it needs colder spark plugs and leads, which I'll be getting shortly), the radiator is a new 3 core, the thermostat is new (82C). So will sucking more air through the radiator fix the problem?

I'd like to be able to use the aircon on hot days, as currently I'm in the ironic position of only being able to use the aircon on mild days, where winding down the window would suffice anyway.

-Truffles
Yes, if you cool the coolant faster than a stock fan will you'll have a cooler engine. Don't expect to the temp to go under 82deg celcuis though. As the thermostat won't allow it. If the systems too efficient it will drop below 82 ;)

Brenden
 

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Phantom 351 XE
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when you buy a set of AU thermals do they come with all the necessary stuff to connect to an xe or do u need to go and buy any connectors, wiring etc?

Rob
 

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74 XB Fairmont
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351xd said:
when you buy a set of AU thermals do they come with all the necessary stuff to connect to an xe or do u need to go and buy any connectors, wiring etc?

Rob
Your only get the fans. As the wirings all custom for any other car than an AU. You have to custom do everything (wiring,replays etc).

Brenden
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Slotted in a set of AU thermals to my ZH today ( same rad as XC i think), got em from American Auto Spares @ $240. The're magic, piss all over the crappy "Ice" single thermal i had in it. Just needed slight mod to top corner to clear hose & angle bracket at base for support, wired both (on at same time) to existing davies craig thermal switch. Left the Zed idling in driveway for 20 mins, temp never went above 80 deg, fans off at 75 deg (fans- 2 mins on x 3 mins off). Looks like i finally have the right combo to cool the clevo- Miloden160 deg high flo thermostat (brass bypass standard restrictor still inplace), Miloden high flo water pump & the AU twin thermals.
Thanks heaps for all the info in earlier posts, saved a lot of time.
Alecz
 

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Yeah wacked in the EL jobbies on the weekend, I havent put in a thermo switch yet as I was looking for the ones Rhett used, so at the moment she is using toggles in the dash.

But I put in a Dayco Thermostat and drove it to work this morning. Very happy. Got ridd of the awful noise the cluthfan makes, more responsive and sat on 1/3 all the way through bumper to bumper traffic for about 20 minutes.

Still think I will go to a bigger Rad tho, just for more volume of water, for the new motor.

Im thinking these arent EL fans tho. They are not offset like au fans, but each fan only has 2 wires, no white wire as mentioned in an earlier thread.
 

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I picked up 3 little switches from RS Components in Osborne Park that close when they reach a specific temperature. They only cost about $8 each and I’ve mounted them all to the top of the radiator near the top inlet. A 60C switch activates one fan, a 75C switch turns on the other fan, and a 90C switch is connected to a reversing alarm to let me know that something is wrong before I go cooking my precious 351.
Rhett I am thinking of going down this route as well and I assume you used these: http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/[email protected]@@@[email protected]@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadddfkdflhlcfngcfkmdgkldfih.0&cacheID=auie&3280478448=3280478448&catoid=-83768476 not these:http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/[email protected]@@@[email protected]@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadddfkdflhlcfngcfkmdgkldfih.0&cacheID=auie&3280478410=3280478410&catoid=-83762356
and used normally open ones. Similar (but cheaper) ones are also available from Jayacar see: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ST3836&CATID=&keywords=thermostat&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
 

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Dam, just went to RS Components at lunch and got a 60 and a 90, was going to get the 75 but thought Id try the 60 first, if it comes on too early I might up it to the 75.
 

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Where are you guys mounting these switches? Are you tapping threads in to the rad?
 

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I only just bought them so I havent fitted them yet, and going OS tonight so It wont get done until Jan. But just by looking at them I was going to just screw them to the top of the Rad (in side the U channel) using self tapping screws. these things are about as round as a 5c peice and and stand about 20mm high so you could put them just about anywhere, But that channel is about the only thing you can drive a couple of screws through so thats my plan.
 

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So they don't actually need to probe in to the rad or anything? They measure the temp on the outside?
 

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Yeah you just fix them to anything and when they heat up to a particular temp, then the circuit closes, power flows and trips the relay, on comes the fan. they cost about $6.80 each.
 

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351 XE on LPG
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Aussiblue said:
The links aren't working Aussiblue.

For anybody who is looking for these switches, go the the following web site and do a search on any of the part numbers listed below. Use the Quick Search tool located in the top, left-hand corner of the screen.

I've been using these switches for years and have only had to change one because it started playing up. At $7 each they are really good value.

www.rsaustralia.com

Part Numbers
50C 228-2557
60C 331-540
75C 331-556
90C 331-562
100C 331-578

The switch will turn OFF once the temp has dropped approx 15 degrees.
 

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351 XE on LPG
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GreenMachine said:
Where are you guys mounting these switches? Are you tapping threads in to the rad?
I used shallow self-tappers and mounted them to the frame of the radiator. Be VERY careful not to touch any water passages. Mount as close to the heat source as possible, ie near the top hose (where the heated water arives from the top of the block) or you can make up your own little brachet and mount it on the motor somewhere. I like the top of the radiator because it is easy to get at and it's easier to hide the wiring.

Rhett
 

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351 XE on LPG
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GreenMachine said:
So they don't actually need to probe in to the rad or anything? They measure the temp on the outside?
They measure the temp thru their butts, so make sure you mount it to a flat surface. Be careful when drilling the holes, because if they are a little too close, the screws (when tightened) will cause the base to arch up away from the surface of the radiator.

Take your time and do a perfect job (nothing less). Take every precaution to protect the radiator when drilling. The water passages are VERY thin and the slightest knock will warrant a trip to the radiator shop for a soldering repair. I've done this only once when I got a bit too confident and a little careless.

Rhett
 

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grey_esp said:
Im thinking these arent EL fans tho. They are not offset like au fans, but each fan only has 2 wires, no white wire as mentioned in an earlier thread.
Mine are like this, came from an EF. They do a fine job, ive got a 2 core XF rad in my XA with these fans. They do pull some power tho, when they come on it drops my lumpy 9-800rpm idle down to very lumpy 5-600 rpm idle.
 

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The links aren't working Aussiblue.
Well the Jaycar one is still working is but the RS ones have now died. But yes they are the ones I thought you meant and the Jaycar ones are similar. Bi-metallic thermostats and not the RS thermal switches part no's 307-929 and 307- 935
 

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And they (the thermatis switches) are slightly cheaper again at Altronics ($4-15) Catalogue Part Numbers S5600, S5610, S%612, S5614 and S5616. You'll find them listed as Thermal Circuit Breakers here: http://www.altronics.com.au/ see third apge of switches.

and on page 3 of http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=prod&grp=283

I'll be using them on my NB and will try and get the EL relays, wiring and fusible link that goes with it if they can be had seperate from the engine wiring harness from Ford. They come in Normallly Closed (NC) 60 degrees, 80 degrees, 90 degrees, 100 degrees and 110 degrees opening tempertaures.
 
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