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I did the conversion yesterday on the XE. I Used the AU twin thermo's, got them direct from ford for $330. They're being turned on by a repco adjustable thermo switch. After finishing installing them, I took the car for a decent drive, bout a 40k round trip, sat in traffic etc, and the temp didn't go above 1/4.

I think i'm gonna have to wire in another switch tho, because if the car is switched off, and then started again in a short period of time, and the temp is still high enough for the thermo's to be on, the motor only just cranks. I think a switch to turn them off completely when starting hot will fix that problem, at least until I can afford to get a bigger battery and bigger alternator etc.

Also, to anyone thinking of using the AU fans, there are only 3-4 mods needed to make them fit perfectly to a XE radiator. Mine look almost factory, just need to clean up the wireing.
 

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Hmm I just bought a set of EL fans from Tital Ford and organised my relays to work for a right hand two speed fan and left hand single speed per the Haynes manual for the EL but when I went to connect I found this set are both single speed only; a red (+ ve) and black (earth) wire to each fan only. Did they change these along the way or something?
 

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xemeanmachine said:
I did the conversion yesterday on the XE. I Used the AU twin thermo's, got them direct from ford for $330. They're being turned on by a repco adjustable thermo switch. After finishing installing them, I took the car for a decent drive, bout a 40k round trip, sat in traffic etc, and the temp didn't go above 1/4.

I think i'm gonna have to wire in another switch tho, because if the car is switched off, and then started again in a short period of time, and the temp is still high enough for the thermo's to be on, the motor only just cranks. I think a switch to turn them off completely when starting hot will fix that problem, at least until I can afford to get a bigger battery and bigger alternator etc.

Also, to anyone thinking of using the AU fans, there are only 3-4 mods needed to make them fit perfectly to a XE radiator. Mine look almost factory, just need to clean up the wireing.
What you have to do is wire the control terminals of your relays up to the ignition switch (red wire with green stripe on my XC). That way they will only work in the ON position and not in the START position. That is, they wont be on while your motor is CRANKING. :teach:
 

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I have them in my NB Fairlane now (which is a 6 not an 8) and what I learnt in the process was:

a) Not only are the Altronic switches cheaper than the Jaycar ones they also fit easier under the fan cowling as they have flat (parrallel to base) contacts.
b) I did the drill (or is that dill) the hole in the radiator trick 1st attempts (thank goodness I have a 185 soldering iron, silver solder and the top row far left side of the radiator is easily accessible and can be fixed without damaging too many fins). So I bought some Aluminium L channel from Bunnings that fits into the top radiator channel snuggly as if it was made for the job. Rivetted the thermatic switches in there first then rivetted channel into radiator (rivets in side of channel so no chance of holing radiator again). While aluminium is a fairly good conductor of heat I also smeared some Unick conductive paste on the aluminium before rivetting it in. This works well and I would recommend this approach; it's just too easy to hole the radiator.

c) Yes the EL fans are single speed.

d) In an 1989 NB I6 you need to replace the air inlet snorkel with one from an XH ute as the old fan cowling had some of the air inlet molded in.

e) It's actually quieter than the old clutch fan. The reason I did this is I have had to replace the clutch every two years (I think the places I buy them from don't read the instrcutions about how they must be stored to prevent loss of wax fluid). I have also had one plastic fan crack which I found and replaced when I rebuilt the engine).

f) I runs quieter and cooler and so far no leaks.

My only residual concern is that the wires on top of the radiator going to the switches are going to get some heat. There is no room for that split tubing stuff (I tried) so I will chase up some of that soft fibreglass looking woven insulation tubing they use in domestic stoves fan wiring etc.
 

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Aussiblue said:
I have them in my NB Fairlane now (which is a 6 not an 8) and what I learnt in the process was:

a) Not only are the Altronic switches cheaper than the Jaycar ones they also fit easier under the fan cowling as they have flat (parrallel to base) contacts.
b) I did the drill (or is that dill) the hole in the radiator trick 1st attempts (thank goodness I have a 185 soldering iron, silver solder and the top row far left side of the radiator is easily accessible and can be fixed without damaging too many fins). So I bought some Aluminium L channel from Bunnings that fits into the top radiator channel snuggly as if it was made for the job. Rivetted the thermatic switches in there first then rivetted channel into radiator (rivets in side of channel so no chance of holing radiator again). While aluminium is a fairly good conductor of heat I also smeared some Unick conductive paste on the aluminium before rivetting it in. This works well and I would recommend this approach; it's just too easy to hole the radiator.

c) Yes the EL fans are single speed.

d) In an 1989 NB I6 you need to replace the air inlet snorkel with one from an XH ute as the old fan cowling had some of the air inlet molded in.

e) It's actually quieter than the old clutch fan. The reason I did this is I have had to replace the clutch every two years (I think the places I buy them from don't read the instrcutions about how they must be stored to prevent loss of wax fluid). I have also had one plastic fan crack which I found and replaced when I rebuilt the engine).

f) I runs quieter and cooler and so far no leaks.

My only residual concern is that the wires on top of the radiator going to the switches are going to get some heat. There is no room for that split tubing stuff (I tried) so I will chase up some of that soft fibreglass looking woven insulation tubing they use in domestic stoves fan wiring etc.
Do you know what happens when you put two dissimilar metals, eg: copper and aluminum together? You get a redox reaction. Have a look in a few months time.
 

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Just fitted my twin AU fan/shroud setup to the XD. Those things could keep a 6 pack cold in my engine bay now! :beer:

Haven't put the thermo switches in yet.....just wired both fans to come on manually. I can't believe how quick they work when turned on. BIG THUMBS UP.
 

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Well the success was short lived.
The Twin EL thermos on my 3.9 6 NB Fairlane worked fine around the suburbs but sitting on the freeway at 100km for a time the car got a bit hot. There also seemed an undue delay between the gauge showing a hot engine and the second fan going on. When I measured the surface temp (multimeter temp probes) in the channel on top of the radiator and the surface temp at on the top of the thermostat housing (where the temp gauge sender unit is) I found a 40 degree C difference with the radiator top being much coooler. As a result I have moved the thermatic switches from the channel on top of the radiator to an Aluminium bracket I made to attach to the thermostat housing (if it works long term pictures will follow). The fans respond much more as I expect now.

I still have a overheating problem (it gets too hot for my liking at higher revs and road speeds) but I thing that is due to:

a) A partially blocked radiator core; when I flushed it I found lot of tiny rubber granules from the interior of the top hose.
b) My 85 amp alternator is not up to the job and the fans are not always getting 12 volts (neither is the Self levelling Suspension Compressor that beeps at me annoyingly when there aren't enough volts to jolt it into action).

So this gets to be a more costly project as I chase after a new 120 amp alternator and a new radiator.
 

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AU for the reason the shroud is better designed. The EL although they work well have basically no shroud.

I've just dropped my radiator off for a flush and to refit the passenger side tank. Either my belt throwing issue which caused a sudden increase in temp or a fault thermostat has caused the tank failure.:doh:

Brenden
 

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I'm told AU ones are more effective but don't last as long (price being reflective of manufacturer's origins I think) . The decider for me was that EL ones fit straight into my NB without mods but the AU ones are too thick to fit and need mods. BTW thinking about it overnight I think my overheating at higher speeds and the difference in temp between the top of the radiator and top of thermostat housing are both symptoms of a partially blocked radiator.
 

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Aussiblue said:
I'm told AU ones are more effective but don't last as long (price being reflective of manufacturer's origins I think) . The decider for me was that EL ones fit straight into my NB without mods but the AU ones are too thick to fit and need mods. BTW thinking about it overnight I think my overheating at higher speeds and the difference in temp between the top of the radiator and top of thermostat housing are both symptoms of a partially blocked radiator.
Sure are :doh: Later model cars cores are really narrow and block real easy. Not the best setup but it slows the flow of water so the fans can effectively cool the coolant faster.

My EL's a pain in the backside for what you've describe. Drives me nuts!

Brenden
 

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Yeh the EL/AU fans work really well, ive got the El ones fitted to my alloy radiator runnin off a manual switch which ill eventually change to a thermal switch but ive had to disconnect one, just running one on a hott day keeps the temperture at 180 degrees pretty constant have to turn it off every now and again to get some heat back in it. Running both fans within 10 seconds it drops from 200 degrees to below readable on my autometre gauge :) they work to well.
 

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Ive got a set of el fans in my xy wagon cooling a 378 cleveland and have no probs with temps being high. Ive got 1 set up running all the time and the other set at 160 deg, most times cruising only the one is runing but its there when i need it. They fit in the bay with a 3 core 75mm xd radiator with about 3in room left between the belt drive. All you need to do is cut some fins off the top near the hose and drill 2 holes where the cowling bolts to.
 

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Update: Once I put a new radiator in it worked fine. Only problem was my alternator isn't up to driving three fans in mid summer in Perth with air con on max etc (I had another Davis Craig Thermo fan in from of the radiator in addition to the Ford EF twin thermos as one quirk of the NB is has a skightly different colling system plumbing including a formed narrower bypass hose under the inlet manifold than NA or NC and it always got a bit too hot with even the clutch fan) - I have found I no longer need this third fan and just use the twins and the alternator copes (albeit just in mid summer).
 

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alecz said:
Was forced to refit stock engine fan, ICE thermal couldnt hack it on a hot day ( not much better on a cool day either-they really are crap ), have ordered twim AU's, which should do the trick. Nothing wrong with stock engine fan though, just dont like all that wasted energy to spin it at high revs. Might even leave the crap ICE fan on (push) when I fit the twin AU's, just to see the affect of a "menage a trois"
Alecz
just a note on this, if the AU fans are up to it,whichit sounds like they will be, i'd remove the other one, i am no expert but did try research this a bit myself,and you'll be better off removing it as it could impede the clean airflow to the radiator. i have been messing around trying to get a 16 inch fan to cool my cleveland,as mustang radiators are squarish and twins wont fit, have tried several brands and no good, have most recently added two tens across the front, this is cooling better in traffic but still not good enough and is actually a bit worse at speed, its blocking the flow of (the quite narrow) radiator, although your falcon radiator might not suffer so much as it is wider. i'll try find some links i had that explain the airflow well

good luck with the AU's

scott
 

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Just on this topic, for any that are unsure on wiring, heres a wiring diagram to connect dual fans, with independant fusible links and relays.
Be sure to use adequately rated wire and fusible links (1.0mm2 which is usually a back fusible link) Do Not use glass, ceramic or blade fuses as they will melt, and fail, possibly overheating the engine.
To trigger each fan independantly, install one trigger switch or temp switch for each relay, providing the ground return path for the relay coil.

Link to Diagram
 
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