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WHAT IS THAT WET GLUE LOOKING STUFF? : 91 EB S STATION WAGON

3K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  Je_1st_Potatoe 
#1 ·
Hi guys!
I swear my neighbour snuck around and deposited a little something in my oil cap.
Is this serious?


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#3 ·
Known as mayonnaise; on early E series Falcons it usually indicates coolant in the oil and a early sign of a blown head gasket. Or it could be condensation and/or sludge from blow by gases if your PCV valve or PCV system isn't working correctly (and if the PVC system isn't working correctly that sludge will adversely effect the oils performance and cause accelerated engine wear). You will also get some condensation sludge if the car is only used for very short trips (or has the thermostat removed) and the engine doesn't get to normal operating temperature.

see: What is this white milky stuff under my oil cap? etc
 
#4 ·
Guessing it will be " milky " gunge ? If so , and not losing any coolant , will probably be caused by condensation which can be normal on a lot of engines , especially if used for short journeys .But as suggested , a picture would help .
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys! Thanks for taking the time!
It makes sense.
I over-heated before, smoked like hell, flushed and changed the oil, flushed and chemical sealed the head casket using one of them pour-into-the coolant types & fixed the smoking, now the milky yogurt stuff.
I shall photograph in the next couple of days.
What does one do now?
Cheers!




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#6 ·
There are a couple of European GM cars which are notorious for that .Against advice a family member bought one new about six years ago and taking of oil cap you could literally take dollops of gunge out of cap and cam box cover with your finger .Checked out by dealership ( and me !! ) all condensation and never used a drop of coolant in the two years + before changing car .Known engine / design fault on those models .
 
#9 ·
...over-heated before, smoked like hell, flushed and changed the oil, flushed and chemical sealed the head casket using one of them pour-into-the coolant types ...
With that history it will be coolant getting into the oil; the pour in chemical is a quick fix not totally effective or long lasting. They usually fail and number one or six and if you pull the spark plugs you will probably find you have a very clean plug at the leaking cylinder. I would replace the head gasket as, besides the engine wear from the coolant getting into the cylinder and oil, you risk it getting worse suddenly and flooding the cylinder with subsequent bent connecting rods; water/coolant is not compressible.
 
#10 ·
Note the reason the head gasket fails in the EA EB ED EF EL six series is that the head gasket is designed to block of two coolant passages at the front of the head and the coolant then erodes and delaminates the graphite or composite gasket there. The chemical block won't stop this eroding and delaminating action although for a while it will stop the new leaks; however it will eventually get so bad the chemical block won't stop it and the leak will take the old chemical block with it with a high risk of the cylinder being flooded and connecting rods being bent. The solution when you replace the head gasket is to use a Ford OEM Multi Layered Steel (MLS) head gasket from the later AU model or the aftermarket Permaseal MLS gasket (the steel doesn't erode or delaminate) e.g. Ford Falcon ED EF EL AU Permaseal Metal MLS Head Gasket SET KIT Head Bolts | eBay (it also fits EA and EB models).

Note also if the you had an extreme overheating event you may have softened the alloy head and you will get head flutter at each end of head as the head bolt caps sink into the softened head; for this reason you will also do a hardness test on the head before replacing the head gasket. This head flutter from a softened head is another reason for gasket failure at number 1 and 6 too. If you replace the head gasket you also need to use new head bolts as they are torque to yield bolts and must not be reused (the Permaseal MLS kit comes with new head bolts).

Another option of course is to run it until it catastrophically fails and then replace the whole engine with the later model AU motor.
 
#11 ·
With regard to the engine coolant , head gasket sealer , it should only be used as a last resort and temporary repair if going to keep car .I refused to use it if asked by customers , insisting on stripping down engine and repairing correctly as needed or not at all.Saying that I had a good friend who was a used car dealer and often used it with good results and swore by it .Hope it gets you by till you are ready to strip down and repair as needed .Good advice / tips from Aussiblue also .
 
#14 ·
The biggest mistake of beginners replacing the head gasket on these engines is breaking the plastic timing chain guide at the front that protrudes above the head. An even the experienced myself include still break one occasionally (darn seatbelts I was using to hold the block to the crane hook broke). The bonnet need to be removed or held open at 90 degrees so you can lift the head off the block vertically about a foot before swinging it forward and out of the engine bay. It's best to use an engine lifting crane to lift the head off as while it's alloy it is heavier than you expect and you need to have a free hand, or better two, to keep it away from that timing chain guide while you lift the head. Replacing the timing chain guide is a bigger job requiring the removal of the timing chain cover, crank pulley, and sump so take extra care lift the head clear.
 
#15 ·
Great tip Blue!
I've been looking for an excuse to buy one of those engine lifts. Now the Mrs will just have to read your advice & I get to have one hhh.
I saw a great how-to-video on an EB and this champ cable tied the timing chain on. Clever. I gotta watch it again and again just to be sure. He was regretting not removing the throttle cable. One more obstacles in the way of lifting clearly straight up.
Anyway mate, I'll shall tackle this in the New Year when Hobart finally warms up.
Cheers.


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