Ford Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 302 is due for an oil change and I am unclear as to what is the best oil. I am in NZ so it mybe a little different to what most of you guys would put in yours with the hotter temperatures. Any ideas?
 

·
Two SC 61's = trouble
Joined
·
6,360 Posts
Money no object? Mobil 1..or Shell Ultra... Try the search link up top ^^
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,944 Posts
Jack,

The recommended oil for the 302 is a 15W-40. If you want a really good oil, run Caltex Delo 400 15w-40. It is a petrol rated diesel engine oil that will really clean the crap out of the motor, that or Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40. Avoid trendy synthetics, waste of money, if you do 5,000k oil changes, as you should.

15W-40 is good down to minus 10C, any colder then you may have to look at something a bit thinner.


cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,447 Posts
I used to use Shell in my I6 but the lifters would be really noisy until I changed to Penrite and I dont get any noise what so ever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,944 Posts
Yep, Penrite has a good range of oils, don't know if they are available in the "Land of the Wrong White Crowd", but ya never know.

cheers:beer:
 

·
Two SC 61's = trouble
Joined
·
6,360 Posts
Same as here..
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
555 Posts
i have used almost every oil outhere on everything from kingswoods to late model lexus and penrite holds the best oil pressure in the hotter conditions, those trendy synthetics like the mobil and shell are so thin you may as well be using tap water, especially on an engine using large clearences like the 302, and if the motor has a few kays on it even better reason to avoid those synthetics.
those water oils should be left to modern motors designed for them.
 

·
Two SC 61's = trouble
Joined
·
6,360 Posts
TyreToaster said:
i have used almost every oil outhere on everything from kingswoods to late model lexus and penrite holds the best oil pressure in the hotter conditions, those trendy synthetics like the mobil and shell are so thin you may as well be using tap water, especially on an engine using large clearences like the 302, and if the motor has a few kays on it even better reason to avoid those synthetics.
those water oils should be left to modern motors designed for them.
Sh!t man you better tell the oil companies that!!! You know things they don't.

He lives in a slightly colder climate and possibly shorter trips compared to Aus..
He did ask which oil is "best" ??...

The main thing is to change whatever oil often..
 

·
The Supreme Machine!
Joined
·
461 Posts
I use Penrite HPR50 in my 302, And recomend it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
HOLY! I didn't expect that much of a reply to this thread. Thanks a heap guys! I will do my research and find out if NZ stocks Penrite else I will have to stick with the trusty Caltex or Mobil. Again, thanks a million. You have saved me a lot of time and effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
651 Posts
Big clearances require heavier oils 20/50 etc

Tighter clearances lighter oils 15/50 etc

I use Castrol formula R 25/50(mineral) in my 347 stroker.
Reving my engine to 6500rpm all day on the track in mid 30's temps, still retains a 60psi idle oil pressure.

My preference to "best oil" is "Royal Purple" synthetic
I dont use it because I cannot afford it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
555 Posts
Like I said on the engine he runs I recommend Penrite (didn’t state which grade intentionally (as I don’t know of his temperature/driving style/distances) but you were quick to jump on a well marketed brand even though it is not as suitable.

His motor has larger clearances and the synthetic shit will only do harm, maybe I should tell the oil companies this information since I do know all hey??, oh hang on they know that 10-40w is no good for old motors so they don’t recommend it but muzzas like to run it to pick up 3kw at the cost of low oil pressure.

So tell me because shell tells you Ferrari uses its oils do you think there talking about that 50 dollar shit u run? Does that mean I should run it in my ford? Remember your driving a primitive car not using current world class technology but a design form the 60’s.

By the way what does u do for a living? I change oil as part of mine as glamorous as it isn’t so I may have some input on this topic, I make it a habit to try and not respond to a post if I don’t genuinely have some useful info to share, I’m not here to sell a product so what I say is almost always un biased.
 

·
freelance
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
TyreToaster said:
Like I said on the engine he runs I recommend Penrite (didn’t state which grade intentionally (as I don’t know of his temperature/driving style/distances) but you were quick to jump on a well marketed brand even though it is not as suitable.

His motor has larger clearances and the synthetic shit will only do harm, maybe I should tell the oil companies this information since I do know all hey??, oh hang on they know that 10-40w is no good for old motors so they don’t recommend it but muzzas like to run it to pick up 3kw at the cost of low oil pressure.

So tell me because shell tells you Ferrari uses its oils do you think there talking about that 50 dollar shit u run? Does that mean I should run it in my ford? Remember your driving a primitive car not using current world class technology but a design form the 60’s.

By the way what does u do for a living? I change oil as part of mine as glamorous as it isn’t so I may have some input on this topic, I make it a habit to try and not respond to a post if I don’t genuinely have some useful info to share, I’m not here to sell a product so what I say is almost always un biased.
Couldn't agree more. I am beginning to wonder if the deletion of oil pressure guages from sports instuments of current models is response to pressure from the purveyers of modern synthetics.
Take a look at the the race oils they are like dishwater, but if you only want the thing to hold together for 5 to 10,000 Kays they serve a purpose.
If you want you engine together well past 1,000,000 avoid the overpriced sythetic snake oils and listen to the guys re-building motors not the ones selling the oils and the t-shirts.
 

·
Two SC 61's = trouble
Joined
·
6,360 Posts
The synthetic or brands that I listed are not that thin yes there are some very thin oils out there.N.Z is alot colder climate than ours and in most cases a long trip, is only 80 to 150 Klrs..There is always a hill and a corner so speed is lower also...Pluss like I said change it often whatever oil!!! Synthetic oils are usually cleaner inside engine also.But NO point on a high milage engine.

Grease monky ha???
Me ex Mech but got out of that years ago.. Not enough money..
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
555 Posts
its true not enough money if you work for someone not so bad if you run it yourself, which is why i said im not recomending a product beause i have read it works or because some nob driving a ferrari tells me to but becuase i have legitimate experience with various types of oil and for the motor in question i recomend this one.

Ps penrite makes fully synthetic oil too but its a $100 bucks a bottle dont know how many of you know.
 

·
Two SC 61's = trouble
Joined
·
6,360 Posts
Yea you just have to trust whats on the shelf too.I usually go for whats on special at the time. Last change on the WRX was Fuchs [sp] around $40.00. 10/50 I think??
Both my turbo cars run synthetic when on boost for some time I find synthetic holds on presure much longer, it doesn't drop from heat as much. At work where I often change oil there with hot engines the oil they use is realy thin when hot.They use the same oil on cars and semi's so I guess its high in detergent etc.I wouldn't use this on a high milage engine either..One thing I will be doing is using mineral when I assemble my Dart block for atleast 5000 Klrs till rings are well bedded in...
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top