[AU_Steve]

I'm having some problems with these idiots trying to get a wheel alignment right on my AU. I think when I take it in next time (this Saturday) he is going to blame the incorrect wheel alignment (or problems) on the case that I have lowered springs in all round and the inability to adjust the Camber/Caster angles.
The car is an AUI Fairmont with approx 40mm lowered Kings Springs, 17" Tickford rims with 235x45 tyres. It has been scrubbing the inside of the tyres a little but I think is come be due to the fixed Camber/Caster angles from the factory. I had the wheel alignment done when the new tyres where fitted and it was beautiful and drove straight and true.
My questions to the suspension guru's on the site are - Should you be able to get a correct wheel alignment with the vehicle as described? Or should I just take it somewhere else where people will hopefully know a litle more about wheel alignments?

 

[Soxx]

Depends on how far it's been lowered, you 'may' need an upper bush kit with longer threads, commonly known as a camber kit.
Stay away from the rachet type adjustable units.

It may also simply be a case of the aligner doesn't know what he's doing, shock horror, this does happen.

You 'should' be able to get the correct adjustment with a hanful of shims, it's not that difficult, I do my own alignments and don't have any issues with uneven tyre wear.

Rick.

 

[AU_Steve]

Thanks Soxx
I wasn't sure if the caster/camber angles affected the ability of the vehicle to drive straight (ie not pull to the left as it does ATM). Tyre wear and cornering/handling Yes. Would that be right?
What maybe think about the ability (or inability) of the wheel aligning guy was that the first go at it, the steering wheel was about 15 to 20deg off centre after the wheel alignment. The next go he took the car for a test drive after the alignment and had to redo it 3 times to get it right. He said that he didn't understand why but he did it the same the 4 times and the last time it was right (he thought). The car still vears to the left with the steering wheel marginally left hand down.
All help is most appreicated.

 

[JC-XR8]

Steve, I have had similar issues with my cars in the past, but fond a guy who can do the alignments well - Ian Moon at Revells steering in Fyshwick (6280 5610). Since I have been taking my (lowered) cars there, I have had no issues with tyres scrubbing at all. Tell them JC sent you!

Ian will let you know if you need a camber/caster kit - if you do, they are around the $300 mark, but if it saves you 2 new tyres, then it's paid for itself.

 

[Soxx]

Both castor and camber effect how the car tracks in a straight line.
Too much camber, either positive or negative will cause the car to follow every groove in the road. Todays tires prefer zero camber to maybe 1 deg negative at the very most. Too much camber also causes tires to wear on the edges.

Modern cars typically have much more positive castor than they once did, and more than 6 deg is now quite normal. Positive castor is what makes the steering wheel snap back to center when let go. It is also what puts a lean on the tire when turning and is a good thing. Castor has little effect on tire wear.

If either castor or camber is slightly different from side to side, it will pull to one side also.

Incorrect toe will make the steering feel vague on center and will also cause the tires to wear, which can be seen by a 'feathered' effect.

I would go somewhere else to have it sorted out, perhaps by the guy who 'JC' pointed out.

Rick.

 

[TICK4D]

AU_Steve,

You definetely need the camber caster adjustment kit.
If you lower your AU at all, the factory does not have enough adjustment to
fix your negative camber.
I only lowered mine 30mm (by NRMA requesting no further)
and could only do so but fitting the camber caster kit.
It is only a one off buy, and you do not need to do anything else again.
Every year when i changed tyres, found that my camber/castor has not moved. And did not need to be adjusted.
On the 3rd straight year i took it to someone else (to double check)
and was told it was spot on.

 

[AU_Steve]

Thanks Guys
Your advise has been invaluable. I think I best look into a castor/camber kit and have it fitted and adjusted somewhere else.

Cheers
AU_Steve

 

[125]

Along with the camber kits the AU's have very soft lower inner control arm bushes which contribute to tyre wear. Worth while having a look at them on a road force simulator. Super Pro polyurethane make replacment bushes.Try Capital Steering 62805243

 

[venomXR6]

i AGREE with soxx but im not so sure on his alignmemt settings myself i would be setting it to neg 1/2 camber and 2 ml toe in which should also be achieved out of the original shim kit? if not kits are required.
PS what tyre pressures are you running?? I would think about 36PSI minimum with the wheel and tyre combination you are running. Try to get it aligned at Pedder or someone that knows what their doing (stay clear of the tyre stores as all they normally touch is the toe in) Hope this helps
Greg/VenomXR6

 

[AU_Steve]

Thanks again guys
Well the place I took the car to orginally wanted another go at the wheel alignment and the readings off the system about the then current settings proved to me that they really have NO IDEA. Although the car now seems to travel fairly straight I am not sure of the compromises these jokers made to achieve it, so I will be taking to a specialist suspension mob in the next week or so. Even if it is only for my peace of mind.

Cheers
Steve
(AU_Steve)

 

[FamilyHak_SPak]

about the camber kits... what types are good? I'm looking into buying the K-MAC ones which are ratchet type i think and theres also the pedders one. Which one is better?

cheers

 

[Soxx]

Doesn't matter what brand it is, just make sure it isn't the rachet type, and make sure it has urethane bushes.

Rick.

 

[EBXR]

Another local suspension place is Inline Steering in Queanbeyan... I've been taking my cars there for a few years, and VERY happy with the result. Chris knows what he's on about, and I found him to be very good with his prices.

 

[FamilyHak_SPak]

Ok theres the ratchet type and the shim type... so the shim type is the way to go if lowering?

thanx for ur help btw

 

[Brent79]

So if your tyres are wearing on the front outside edges, your camber is too far positive? Does this mean that camber and castor are slightly adjustable? Or is the kit
required coz of bush wear or somethin?

Brent

 

[Soxx]

So if your tyres are wearing on the front outside edges, your camber is too far positive? Does this mean that camber and castor are slightly adjustable? Or is the kit
required coz of bush wear or somethin?

Camber and castor are adjuastable as standard with a handful of shims. However in your case there is a chance that you may need a camber kit as the bushes are positioned closer in, allowing you to achieve more negative camber.

Rick.

 

[125]

Wearing on the outside edges doesnt just mean the camber is possitive. It may mean you have way to much toe in! Take it to someone with a good machine & operator & get it checked.