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a vile merchant
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just running a few stupid ideas around in my head here :)

For anyone that's done it, what extractors did you use? Do you need extractors for an AU or just some weirdo spark plug leads are enough for clearance? Will these heads use the same length pushrod? Any other issues?
 

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if u r going to the expence of getting new heads ,i would think u would already have fitted a set of extractors. According to my info there is a major difference in the port size on both sides i think that the exhaust should bolt up .whach out on the inlet side tho not to shure of the stack intake manifold. try getting the ford racing parts catalog ..some realy good info in it .
 

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a vile merchant
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Discussion Starter #3
oze50 said:
if u r going to the expence of getting new heads ,i would think u would already have fitted a set of extractors. According to my info there is a major difference in the port size on both sides i think that the exhaust should bolt up .whach out on the inlet side tho not to shure of the stack intake manifold. try getting the ford racing parts catalog ..some realy good info in it .
True I have already fitted extractors. I know the intakes bolt up the same. I have an AU one under my bed anyway :)
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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It'll bolt up..Just check preload on lifters as with any head replacment...
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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Have GT40P's on my ED with EB-EL Genie extractors and 90 degree spark plug leads. Pushrod length is the same too. Just to add to oze50, the stock inlet manifold will be fine but won't flow enough for the heads so upgrade the intake at the same time.
 

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ebxr8240 said:
It'll bolt up..Just check preload on lifters as with any head replacment...
Just stumbled across this old post and I just thought I'd like to point out:

If you are going this option (GT40P's on a 302W) you WILL DEFINITELY NEED EXTRACTORS. DO NOT GO WITHOUT.

(at least on my EF..) I changed the heads using stock exhaust manifold. I had been told it would "be okay but you'll want to change them" (all work was done by a very reputable brand mind you .. !) And it was fine. Sorta. They had to squash the exhaust just to get it to fit -- and where they DID have it fitting it was still fouling against the rubber (and obviously melting it) .. ruining spark plugs and running on fewer than 8 cylinders. This was not fun!

Save yourself the money and hassle and go with extractors first. Really!

jasonk :)
 

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I had the same problem when I fitted the T3 heads on my car.
The hurricane headers bolted straight up, but the No6 plug is in a tight spot and you cant get a socket onto it. Had to nip it up with some pliers.
Also had to reverse the plug lead around.
Im looking into whether an AU header will fit onto passenger side and clear everything etc.
Steve
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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Steve's XR8 said:
Im looking into whether an AU header will fit onto passenger side and clear everything etc.
No they won't without tons of modifications. I just use standard pacemaker EB-EL extractors and cut and welded up a socket adaptor to remove the spark plugs.
 

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Forced Falcon
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In my opion putting GT40's on is a waste of money, for $2400 you can put a set of alloys on and shead weight and gain huge increase in power, the the cost of new GT40's or buying used ones and rebuilding them would be a complete waste of money, you will gain power but than you have a car which is no quicker than any AU XR8, why bother
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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EATURBO said:
In my opion putting GT40's on is a waste of money, for $2400 you can put a set of alloys on and shead weight and gain huge increase in power, the the cost of new GT40's or buying used ones and rebuilding them would be a complete waste of money, you will gain power but than you have a car which is no quicker than any AU XR8, why bother

Exactly !!!
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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EATURBO said:
In my opion putting GT40's on is a waste of money, for $2400 you can put a set of alloys on and shead weight and gain huge increase in power, the the cost of new GT40's or buying used ones and rebuilding them would be a complete waste of money, you will gain power but than you have a car which is no quicker than any AU XR8, why bother
The GT40P's aren't as good as the aftermarket offerings but they are still a decent head if you get them cheap. Also unlike most of the aftermarket alloys, GT40P's can use the standard pedestal rockers so that saves even more money. GT40P's flow 200cfm stock, 220cfm for the Tickford versions compared with 230cfm for Edelbrocks and 245cfm for Trickflows so there is a difference but it's not huge. With GT40P's you can get a 5L up to around 190-200rwkw where alloys will get you to 210-220kw.
 

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Forced Falcon
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my point is that you have to buy all the gaskets and some people have to pay labour and for all the associated costs involved all you have is what everbody else has already got, a bloke offered me a set of GT40's for $500 but by the time i had new valve guides new valve springs, valve grind etc etc it would have cost me $1200 than i had to fit them, lucky for me i am a mechanic but i still had to buy gaskets, I like alot of people on this forums have learnt that cheaper is actually dearer because you usally end up buying the better gear latter on which means you've done it twice
 

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EDXR8 said:
The GT40P's aren't as good as the aftermarket offerings but they are still a decent head if you get them cheap. Also unlike most of the aftermarket alloys, GT40P's can use the standard pedestal rockers so that saves even more money. GT40P's flow 200cfm stock, 220cfm for the Tickford versions compared with 230cfm for Edelbrocks and 245cfm for Trickflows so there is a difference but it's not huge. With GT40P's you can get a 5L up to around 190-200rwkw where alloys will get you to 210-220kw.
Exactly, we just found 232 [email protected] with a modded set of T3 GT40P heads, and they were stronger everywhere in the lower ranges.

More important here is the average port cross section, and u will find that with increasing the cross sectional area too much, you can saturate the cylinder. This will cause the engine to require extra timing, etc when being mapped, causing inefficiency and bad fuel consumption. sure it will make the power up high, but for a daily driver, the cast iron heads are enough.

Dont get me wrong, im the first person to want more power, however you need to remember the application and budget. $2400 for heads, then manifold, then you need to up the RPM limit, then you need to re-do the short, whilst its apart u might want to stroke it, etc etc.

Next thing you know, your in the bin for over 10 large, and for what result?

Ive tried talking customers out of this gear with XR8's, but they cant help themselves. Next thing you know they are making 250rwkw, but the cars aren't as fast as a 220rwkw cast headed deal on the road because of wheelspin and acceleration.

Check the qtr times on the alloy headed T series, and the AU220 with the cast heads. Also check the fuel economy and driveability.

The gentleman who started this thread requested tech info in cast heads. So, if you are technically minded give him the advice he has asked for. If you are just a magazine reader, dont comment. If you want to recommend alloy heads, give him the full story, not an opinion. The correct questions would have been "what's your budget" or "how often does the car get driven".
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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Spot on..You need to have a combination that works "together"...Flow numbers are only part of the tune etc..But still some charge heaps for mild porting...Mild heads out of the box and using total package works too..Remember also our cars are alot bloody heavier than Mustangs where most of these performance parts come from..
Pre AU then the whole inlet package needs replacing..
Depends if you want stealth quick street neat or alittle more agressive...
Btw I know of a few people that have had there heads so called prefessionally ported cost heaps and only made a few extra kw..Again its the "total" package....
Edited I thought it was a T series..
Way back I fitted TFS heads,Cobra kit from svt, which included X3Z eec,24 Lp injectors,E303 cam 65mm throttle body,70mm maf and Cobra inlet.It went from 127rwkw to 167rwkw, about the same as slightly modded Sprint...Oh with crappy 1 1/2 primery extractors!!!Went turbo after that.. Frustrating but power is easy to make now...
My inlet is still used, I hope EBXR8 right ?
 

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Forced Falcon
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Check out www.airflowresearch.com and go to the articles page. Scroll down to The Ultimate Guide to 5.0 Cylinder Heads group 1 and group 2 as they would probably interest you. The articles have airflow data and horsepower figures on a test mule for many street heads, world products included. The E7TE is used as the baseline for comparison, and the alloy AFR's 165 made the best power and torque of all the heads and was only up to 6000rpm, it even made more midrange than the others so i can not see why you would not use them
 

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EATURBO said:
Check out www.airflowresearch.com and go to the articles page. Scroll down to The Ultimate Guide to 5.0 Cylinder Heads group 1 and group 2 as they would probably interest you. The articles have airflow data and horsepower figures on a test mule for many street heads, world products included. The E7TE is used as the baseline for comparison, and the alloy AFR's 165 made the best power and torque of all the heads and was only up to 6000rpm, it even made more midrange than the others so i can not see why you would not use them
buy a head and flow it. it seems once the heads lob in oz, they lose some steam........
 

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Bottle Feed Your Baby
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if anyone is interested in a set of GT40p's i have a set here collecting dust.. 10,000 klms old like new....
 

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check out the dart roush heads, they come complete for around 1800 and will absolutely abolish gt40 heads. you wont have to worry about the non angled spark plugs either, the GT40s spark plugs run straight, the Darts run like a stock head, they flow way more and come with valves, bolt in studs, springs etc.
 
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