Ford Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Full backstory: Key for car was lost, and the car (2008 Escape) has been sitting for about 6 months... battery died.

Got locksmith to come over and he tried to program new keys. Since the battery was dead, he put a charger on the battery first. His device for reprogramming the car's computer wasn't working, so he removed the charger, and then replaced the charger, and then the dashboard lights lit up properly, and he was able to program the keys, and start the car.

I drove the car around for a bit to charge the battery, and then parked it in my driveway. The next day, I tried to start the car, and the airbag light was the only light on the dashboard that came on (and stayed on). Horn, windows, lights, and radio all worked. Tried jumping the car... nothing. Replaced the battery with a brand new one... nothing.

I've checked the fuses, airbag connectors under the seat, wiggled the key, disconnected the battery over night... basically every recommendation I can find on the internet.

Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Is the security dash light normal when you insert key into ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?
If not check for bat v on starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
If no v on starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Is the security dash light normal when you insert key into ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?
If not check for bat v on starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
If no v on starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
I will check the rest of these tonight, but the PATS security light never comes on at all. The ONLY light that comes on is the airbag light. No mileage, no diagnostic lights... nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'll be honest sounds like dead battery. Do you have a way to measure voltage?
...except I replaced the battery. I replaced it with the one in my Toyota Corolla first, and then replaced it with a brand new one. Multimeter shows the battery is good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Quick update: I bought a ~$30 OBD2 device (WOW! Works *SO* incredibly well!). I cleared all faults (most from the battery being disconnected) and was left with a total of five faults. Please keep in mind that ONLY the air bag light comes on. The PATS light does not come on AT ALL:

P1000
P1260
U0140
C1145
U1900
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Well, you've got something to work with now. Best begin by getting wiring diagram and start checking power/grounds to modules/instrument panel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
Well I would go after the U codes first. The p1260 is a PATS code but with no other lights on its not important at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
I'll be honest it still sounds like something is being overlooked. You sure none of the wires broke off or were disconnected from battery terminals. To have absolutely nothing but an airbag lamp on is very strange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I'll be honest it still sounds like something is being overlooked. You sure none of the wires broke off or were disconnected from battery terminals. To have absolutely nothing but an airbag lamp on is very strange.
I agree that it's strange. :)

Took the battery back in to Pep Boys and got it fully charged. Put it back in, and I'm still having the same issue. To break down the codes:

P1000 is ignorable. Won't go away until the car's running and it gets good data

P1260 is "Theft detected - Engine disabled". Basically, it's PATS, but since there's no red light on the dash, the failure is being caused by something else.

U0140 is "Lost Communication with BCM (Body Control Module) AKA:GEM". This is the one that has my eyebrow up... I'm not sure what to do to test this, though.

C1145 is an ABS issue. I don't think it would cause the car to not start.

U1900 is a "CAN communication Bus Fault". Related to U0140, perhaps? Maybe I have a bad PCM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
Not a bad pcm. If it was just a pcm or bad gem you would have other functions. Neither of those would cause the cluster to not function at all unless they are bringing down the communication network. But that raises other questions of why after just parking overnight. And since you can get codes from the pcm,abs module at least you know they are doing something. What modules did you get the U codes from? Can you do a network test with the scan tool you have?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Not a bad pcm. If it was just a pcm or bad gem you would have other functions. Neither of those would cause the cluster to not function at all unless they are bringing down the communication network. But that raises other questions of why after just parking overnight. And since you can get codes from the pcm,abs module at least you know they are doing something. What modules did you get the U codes from? Can you do a network test with the scan tool you have?
Here's the results of the test I did last night with FORScan (I will try to get the Freeze frame information later):

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. To clear P1000 in the shortest amount of time, follow the link to the OBD Drive Cycle. If the link is unavailable, the OBD Drive Cycle can also be found under Toolbox. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle unless it is requested by the customer to pass an inspection/maintenance test. Inform the customer of the need for additional driving when legally required to pass an inspection/maintenance test.

===END PCM DTC P1000-FF===

===PCM DTC P1260-FF===
Code: P1260 - THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect PATS module.

Suspect circuit fault between PCM and PATS.

Suspect PCM.

===END PCM DTC P1260-FF===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===OCS DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Occupant Classification System Module

===END OCS DTC None===

===4X4M DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: 4X4 Control Module

===END 4X4M DTC None===

===ABS DTC C1145-E0===
Code: C1145 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

This DTC may be caused by :

Sensor

Short circuit

Sensor Previously disconnected.

Open circuit

Damaged or contaminated connector

===END ABS DTC C1145-E0===

===RCM DTC U1900-E0===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END RCM DTC U1900-E0===

===PSCM DTC U0155-6F===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Power Steering Control Module

===END PSCM DTC U0155-6F===
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
Ok so you have nothing from IC or GEM. I would recheck fuses for both those modules. IC being the most important one to me to look at since it isn't doing anything at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Ok so you have nothing from IC or GEM. I would recheck fuses for both those modules. IC being the most important one to me to look at since it isn't doing anything at this point.
Just re-checked all of the fuses, and they're all good. Just to make sure, I replaced ALL fuses even remotely related... same issue. So... definitely not a fuse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Do you have a diagram to check power in and out of ignition switch?
I don't... however... update time:

My other car is on its last legs, so I got the Ford towed to the dealership down the road to get it looked at.

...and it started right up at the dealership.

:angry:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,785 Posts
P1000: Battery was disconnected, can be ignored.

P1260: Theft protection, if your battery keeps going dead, it may reactivate this code.

U0140: Lost communication with body control module, probably battery, still.

C1145: Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure. Shouldn't stop the car, I' address it once you get over the other issues.

U1900: CAN communications bus fault. This one might be what's part of what's biting you. I found this:

"Normal Operation The high speed CAN (Controller Area Network) has an unshielded twisted pair cable, circuits 1908 (WH) and 1909 (BK). The anti-lock brake system (ABS) module, the instrument cluster, the powertrain control module (PCM) and the trailer brake controller are all on the CAN. The total resistance values from the module to the data link connector (DLC) must not be more than 5 ohms. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms there is an open in one of the CAN circuits, damage to the DLC C251, damage to one of the communications network module connectors, or damage to an in-line connector.

  • Possible Causes
  • CAN circuit 1908 (WH) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • CAN circuit 1909 (BK) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • DLC C251
  • ABS module
  • ABS module C135
  • instrument cluster
  • instrument cluster C220b
  • PCM
  • PCM C175b or C1381b
  • trailer brake controller
  • trailer brake controller C2142b"
Before anything, I'd get a reliable battery. If you do, and have to leave it before curing your ills, you might want to disconnect the battery to prevent parasitic drain.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top