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Discussion Starter #21
P1000: Battery was disconnected, can be ignored.

P1260: Theft protection, if your battery keeps going dead, it may reactivate this code.

U0140: Lost communication with body control module, probably battery, still.

C1145: Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure. Shouldn't stop the car, I' address it once you get over the other issues.

U1900: CAN communications bus fault. This one might be what's part of what's biting you. I found this:

"Normal Operation The high speed CAN (Controller Area Network) has an unshielded twisted pair cable, circuits 1908 (WH) and 1909 (BK). The anti-lock brake system (ABS) module, the instrument cluster, the powertrain control module (PCM) and the trailer brake controller are all on the CAN. The total resistance values from the module to the data link connector (DLC) must not be more than 5 ohms. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms there is an open in one of the CAN circuits, damage to the DLC C251, damage to one of the communications network module connectors, or damage to an in-line connector.

  • Possible Causes
  • CAN circuit 1908 (WH) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • CAN circuit 1909 (BK) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • DLC C251
  • ABS module
  • ABS module C135
  • instrument cluster
  • instrument cluster C220b
  • PCM
  • PCM C175b or C1381b
  • trailer brake controller
  • trailer brake controller C2142b"
Before anything, I'd get a reliable battery. If you do, and have to leave it before curing your ills, you might want to disconnect the battery to prevent parasitic drain.

Drove the car to work... no issues. Drove it home, and once I turned the car off there, the exact same issue popped up.

The battery was the first suspect, which is why I tried another, and then bought a brand new one... neither fixed the issue.

I saw the CAN thing on another site... but couldn't determine where it (or its connectors) was. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to cars (I'm a computer nerd). :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Drove the car to work... no issues. Drove it home, and once I turned the car off there, the exact same issue popped up.

The battery was the first suspect, which is why I tried another, and then bought a brand new one... neither fixed the issue.

I saw the CAN thing on another site... but couldn't determine where it (or its connectors) was. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to cars (I'm a computer nerd). :)
I figured I'd wrap this all up with the solution for people running into the same problem. It was the instrument cluster. Replaced it, and all is good.

Thank you to everyone that tried to help me with this!
 

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Hello,
i just wanted to thank everybody for this thread and also for the original poster for following up with what the issue was as it I helped me diagnose mine.
I just wanted to add that even though it ended up being the instrument cluster that was malfunctioning and causing the vehicle to display nothing on the instrument cluster (except for the airbag light remaining on) even when the key was turned to the on or crack position, a hard tap to the top of the instrument cluster got it working again and saved me the tow bill to get it to the shop and telling them to replace the instrument cluster.
 

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I had the same problem with an 08 XR6 Turbo. Car had been unused for a fortnight. Would not start with the same symptoms above - air bag warning on, no dash lights, fan and other relays clicking on.
Jump start - no good
New battery - no good
Read this thread. Thumped the top of the dash above the instrument cluster - ALL GOOD :)
Dash lights returned to normal and car started straight up.
Got to love the old thump the dash fix. I guess I'm up for a new cluster.
Thanks to all who contributed.
 

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Is the security dash light normal when you insert key into ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?
If not check for bat v on starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
If no v on starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
I agree sounds like starter relay... when defective they are intermittent, switch it out.
 

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I figured I’d post this here because I am having a very similar problem.

I have a 97 Saab 900S 2.3L
It drove normally until one day it didn’t.
Now, when I twist the key to “on” lights, radio, windows- all work as normal. Except the dash is dark except a dimly lit SRS and ABS blinking light. There is no sound from the fuel pump, and no meters moving. When I turn to crank, the starter goes as normal, but there is no ignition.

I have tried:
-Jumping/replacing battery
-Replacing computer
-Replacing instrument cluster
-Testing ALL fuses/relays
-Computer reader (doesn’t detect any)
-All fluids are good
-Fuel pump was replaced this year

I’m really racking my brain on this one. Any ideas?
 

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Not sure why you're posting about a Saab in a Ford forum, but I'll give it a go. Have you verified you're getting power to your coil?
 

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Old post, but sounds like you had a bad instrument cluster. If it goes out alot of time it cuts off the immobilizer circuit running through it. Thus rendering the vehicle inoperable. No crank, no dash lights/gauge power, No door chime, are a few symptoms. But there are more as well. You will get dtc's sometimes, but other times the vehicle will not throw codes out. It just depends on what is damaged in the cluster. Check that you have a good ground at the instrument cluster connector, then find the constant 12v hot and check that it has correct voltage. Once this is good turn the key to the on or run position. Then check engine on/acc 12v hot wire in the connector. (In total there will be two 12v positive/hot wires and one ground wire mixed in with the other wires going into the connector. One 12v hot wire will be a constant hot, the other will energize when the key is in the run/on position. If these wires check out good, then you know the problem is in the cluster itself. If wires aren't getting proper voltage/ground, then problem isn't the cluster. Check Fuses in fuse box or Smart Junction box. If good then check box itself. They fail quite often. Also connector pins for corroded/ loose connections. Then check all associated grounds. If you lose a ground then it will be a problem as well. But this sounds like the cluster went out. Peace..
 

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I forgot to add that if you have no or improper voltage at the instrument cluster, then check the voltage regulator as well (if it has one). They do go bad from time to time and will shut down the cluster and the vehicle.
 

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Re post # 31 by Aburke80

" sounds like you had a bad instrument cluster "

Poster states instrument cluster has been replaced .

" No crank "

Poster states it does crank " the starter goes as normal, "

It sounds as if you may have a few faults , rather than just the one .Easy things first .
You could check crank sensor and wiring , if faulty you will get non start . Also check if you have a instrument panel dimmer switch and that is not turned down to dim .

Must have missed this post when originally posted , doubt help needed now .
 

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Won't start, airbag light stays on, no other dash lights. 2014 Fiesta
I have the same issue today. Car has been perfect and all battery, fuses have had no issues. All maintenance is up to date and vehicle driven daily including today with no issues. However, I would like to add that before I checked here my suspicion is that the vehicle thinks it was in and accident and cut off all electric as a safety measure. The reasoning is that even though the car was parked we had HIGH WINDS with gusts over 50 MPH. Car was parked cross ways to the wind (not into it) and was likely buffeted by some gusts.
Any thoughts on this idea?
 

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Won't start, airbag light stays on, no other dash lights. 2014 Fiesta
I have the same issue today. Car has been perfect and all battery, fuses have had no issues. All maintenance is up to date and vehicle driven daily including today with no issues. However, I would like to add that before I checked here my suspicion is that the vehicle thinks it was in and accident and cut off all electric as a safety measure. The reasoning is that even though the car was parked we had HIGH WINDS with gusts over 50 MPH. Car was parked cross ways to the wind (not into it) and was likely buffeted by some gusts.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Walked back to car to try a reset by disconnecting ground from battery. Limited success, got the other lights to come on and got the usual chimes with ignition on. Managed to keep it stable long enough to roll up the window. Then tried to start and cluster started fritzing for a moment and then back to just the airbag light. Removed key completely and upon re-insertion got the lights on but still no start. Just for good measure tried the thump measure described above but no joy.
 

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Sounds to me like it thinks it was in an accident as well. Got any codes associated with it?
 
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