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Discussion Starter #21
P1000: Battery was disconnected, can be ignored.

P1260: Theft protection, if your battery keeps going dead, it may reactivate this code.

U0140: Lost communication with body control module, probably battery, still.

C1145: Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure. Shouldn't stop the car, I' address it once you get over the other issues.

U1900: CAN communications bus fault. This one might be what's part of what's biting you. I found this:

"Normal Operation The high speed CAN (Controller Area Network) has an unshielded twisted pair cable, circuits 1908 (WH) and 1909 (BK). The anti-lock brake system (ABS) module, the instrument cluster, the powertrain control module (PCM) and the trailer brake controller are all on the CAN. The total resistance values from the module to the data link connector (DLC) must not be more than 5 ohms. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms there is an open in one of the CAN circuits, damage to the DLC C251, damage to one of the communications network module connectors, or damage to an in-line connector.

  • Possible Causes
  • CAN circuit 1908 (WH) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • CAN circuit 1909 (BK) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • DLC C251
  • ABS module
  • ABS module C135
  • instrument cluster
  • instrument cluster C220b
  • PCM
  • PCM C175b or C1381b
  • trailer brake controller
  • trailer brake controller C2142b"
Before anything, I'd get a reliable battery. If you do, and have to leave it before curing your ills, you might want to disconnect the battery to prevent parasitic drain.

Drove the car to work... no issues. Drove it home, and once I turned the car off there, the exact same issue popped up.

The battery was the first suspect, which is why I tried another, and then bought a brand new one... neither fixed the issue.

I saw the CAN thing on another site... but couldn't determine where it (or its connectors) was. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to cars (I'm a computer nerd). :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Drove the car to work... no issues. Drove it home, and once I turned the car off there, the exact same issue popped up.

The battery was the first suspect, which is why I tried another, and then bought a brand new one... neither fixed the issue.

I saw the CAN thing on another site... but couldn't determine where it (or its connectors) was. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to cars (I'm a computer nerd). :)
I figured I'd wrap this all up with the solution for people running into the same problem. It was the instrument cluster. Replaced it, and all is good.

Thank you to everyone that tried to help me with this!
 

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Hello,
i just wanted to thank everybody for this thread and also for the original poster for following up with what the issue was as it I helped me diagnose mine.
I just wanted to add that even though it ended up being the instrument cluster that was malfunctioning and causing the vehicle to display nothing on the instrument cluster (except for the airbag light remaining on) even when the key was turned to the on or crack position, a hard tap to the top of the instrument cluster got it working again and saved me the tow bill to get it to the shop and telling them to replace the instrument cluster.
 

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I had the same problem with an 08 XR6 Turbo. Car had been unused for a fortnight. Would not start with the same symptoms above - air bag warning on, no dash lights, fan and other relays clicking on.
Jump start - no good
New battery - no good
Read this thread. Thumped the top of the dash above the instrument cluster - ALL GOOD :)
Dash lights returned to normal and car started straight up.
Got to love the old thump the dash fix. I guess I'm up for a new cluster.
Thanks to all who contributed.
 

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Is the security dash light normal when you insert key into ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?
If not check for bat v on starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
If no v on starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
I agree sounds like starter relay... when defective they are intermittent, switch it out.
 
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