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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I detailed my engine last Saturday and now when I go to start her up she won't crank when I turn the key in the ignition. I changed the starter selenoid. I have no clue on why she won't crank. The starter motor turns when I try to hot wire it. PLEASE HELP!!!:sad:
 

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cougar/bulletbird member
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74 Posts
two things come to mind, 1. did you accidentaly switch the the two small wires on the solenoid? one is ign bypass to the coil and the other is the cranking wire. if they get swapped it will not crank with the key. 2. sometimes on old wiring, the act of touching them cause evil demons to be released. put a test light on the red wire with blue trace (thats the crank wire) and ground the other side of the light. then go turn the key and see if it lights up. if it does not light up, the evil demons have chewed their way through the wire and you need to find out where and why (sometimes bending the wire causes a break due to age and brittle fatigued wires). hope this helps, hawkrod
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I was careful and labeled everything before I took the wires off. I noticed when my Dad tried starting in nwutral it almost started. Is there any typeof safety switch or connection on the transmission?
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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70 Posts
Yes, it is called the neutral start safety switch. Properly ajusted, the switch only allows the starter to crank in neutral or park. The switch is located on the side of the tranmission where the shift lever attaches. You may get the car to start by jiggling the shifter lever. Let me know if you want to learn how to adjust the switch.
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Please. I took the shift bezel off and I saw something that could have a light. Is that neutral safety switch. Please tell me how to adjust it. I wanna take her out for a ride!!!!!
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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70 Posts
Like I said, the neutral start swith is ON the transmission itself. You gotta get under the car to see it. It's on the driver's side where the shift linkage attaches to the trans. The switch is a half-circle housing secured by two bolts to the trans. If you look closely there is a small (1/8"?) hole in the switch body. Find a drill bit of that size then put the trans shifter lever in "nuetral". Get back under the car and loosen the two bolts securing the switch. Insert the drill bit in the hole and lightly push it inward. Move the switch side to side until the drill bit can be pushed in farther. (You'll feel it go in farther at a certain point in the switch's movement). Tighten the bolts and check to see if the car will now start in "nuetral" AND in "park". If so, you're done; if not, get back under the car and try adjusting the switch again. Hope this helps. It will if the switch is out of adjustment.
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We finally fixed it the points were a little dirty. We cleaned them and now she starts right up.
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea it still doesn't turn on in park, it only starts in neutral.
 
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Ok, maybe we need to backup. If you are saying that it will not turn over or do anything in park, but it starts in neutral then it definately sounds like your neutral safety switch. You could do what I did to fix mine and change over to a manual!!!:s6: Honestly I don't know much about them, but that really sounds like the source of your problem!!
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry about the confusing. I will try next time to be a little clearer. mfp4073 I plan to swapto a t-5 eventually when I put a 302 in the car. So far I know I don't have to change the suspension because my stang is a 68. What other things do I need to consider when swaping in a T-5 and a 302?
 
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I have never done the t-5 swap, I went with a toploader and original parts. What engine do you have in your car now??
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have the 200 cu. in. inline 6. Not much grunt. My Taurus has more power.
 

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Taurus Member
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My car is presently has 4 lugs. Before I change the engine and transmission I plan to upgrade to Willwood 4 piston disk brake up front w/ 5 lugs, and change to 5 lugs in back retaining the drum setup. As far as the suspension it doesn't have to be changed. I am going to get new springs, leafs and bushings b/c I plan to drop the car 1" at all 4 corners.
 
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SuperDave said:
I don't mean to be a PITA, but a proper '68 six to V-8 conversion is no different than the earlier cars.
First off who you being a PITA to??:eek:o1: And 2 I believe you will have to change spindles, springs, etc for the conversion. Anyone know about steering componts??
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
Joined
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70 Posts
If you (we) want to start a discussion of the six to V-8 swap, why not start a new thread rather than bury it in this one? Personally, I'm of the opinion that it is way more work than anyone imagines. Unless you are a gluton for punishment, it is much easier and far less expensive to just go buy a V-8 car.
 
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