Did you change the fuel filter?

Too much fuel for some reason.

Shite in carby I'd suspect.

 

ZHFairlaneV8, hopefully it's not a big problem. Agree with TTNOS8,sounds like it is flooding. Check for; correct float adjustment, no crap in needle and seats and that needle and seats are working properly ie, they actually stop fuel flow. Did the needles go back in the original seats?

If the motor was running OK before your last carb died, you should not have to touch your timing. Same goes for your inlet manifold gasket. I can't see it being anything other than the carb if thats all you have changed.

 

It's the exact issue I had with mine. I solved it by changing the plugs to a better plugs. The be all and end all of solving the issue is to rejet the carb. Grab the jets out of your old thermoquad.

All your doing is fouling plugs.

Brenden

 

But there is a reason why it is doing it Brenx, I'd say needle and seat are not sealing.

Possibly the fuel filter wasn't changed, like ZHFairlaneV8 said, he had everything spotless, or maybe a dodgy batch of fuel, or shite in the tank.

Plugs I doubt are the problem, and replacing them may get it running, but won't fix the problem, it's only patching the problem.

Not having a dig at you, but try and tell me yours is jetted right atm, and your old plugs fouling wasn't because of it.

 

Not having a dig at you, but try and me yours is jetted right atm, and your old plugs fouling wasn't because of it.

Love to know when you got mine tuned? Mine aint jetted even close to what it should be. I haven't had a fouled plugs sine I changed to the correct rated plugs but it is still very rich.

My problem is carb jetting.

Since he only changed carbs I'd say the jetting is incorrect. Prob a thermoquad from a 351 which is jetted bigger.

while your at it how many rwkw is mine doing? I have no idea and since you had mine tuned I guess I'd better ask you.

Brenden

 

Love to know when you got mine tuned? Mine aint jetted even close to what it should be. I haven't had a fouled plugs sine I changed to the correct rated plugs but it is still very rich.

My problem is carb jetting.

Since he only changed carbs I'd say the jetting is incorrect. Prob a thermoquad from a 351 which is jetted bigger.

while your at it how many rwkw is mine doing? I have no idea and since you had mine tuned I guess I'd better ask you.

Brenden

That's what I'm saying Brenden, yours is rich as you have said previous and is fouling plugs as a result.

I'm saying ZHFairlaneV8 is getting too much fuel somehow, whether it is needle & seat not seating, float adjustment, or jetting. IMO it is not a timing/plug issue.

I missed a word that made me look like I was saying I had yours tuned. DOH

rwkw for yours......... I'd guess at least 1,000,000,000 HP (Hamster Power)

 

Needle and seat /fuel leak test (which to do properly does involve removing the carb) .... small tin of petrol, length of fuel line and a "pump-up" primer bulb for a boat fuel tank (about $5-$7 from a boat place). Hook it to your carb fuel inlet and pump away and see if/where it leaks. Does the bulb go firm or is it still easy to pump? Also handy to prime an empty carb to avoid excessive cranking.

Also, is your EGR valve still fitted? Could there be a vacuum leak associated with the EGR circuit?
As the jets on Thermoquads vary with manifold depression, if you have a significant vacuum leak around the carb to manifold interface, it can disturb the signal to the metering rod piston, making it rich (high vacuum=piston pulling down, closing the jets; less~no vacuum=piston not pulling down leaving the jet orifice larger).

 

I'd say needle and seat, try disconnecting the fuel supply to the carb and see if it clears up and starts to rev clean. Easy way would be to run a length of hose from the fuel pump back to the fuel tank or a can to collect the fuel.

 

The Float level is set at 23.11mm from the gasket as required.
The Seats and Needles are working to my knowledge. I used compressed air on the fuel intake on the carby to simulate fuel and they stopped it

 

I took my Inlet manafold off today and noticed somethings i thought someone out there could answer.

1. After lifting the manafold out, there was a large metal gasket that went around and under the manafold. It should evidence of fuel leaking out of the manafold and on to this metal gasket.

2. on the underside of the inlet manafold, there was areas of surface rust around the rear of the manafold (cylinders 6 - 8), it was flakey brown and came off with a cloth. does this mean there has been water there?

 

Any thoughts?

Im going to change my head anyway since they were noisy and replace the inlet manafold with one in better condition. Also get the carby reco'd

This should fix the probs right?

 

You don't have to use the metal pan gasket if it's giving you sealing problems.
You can get replacment gaskets that consist of cork (or) rubber for the front and rear and paper gaskets for the sides. Some people just use form-a-gasket for the front and rear gasket with good results.

 

Dude all you had to do was turn off the fuel supply, run the throttle wide open and see if it stoped blowing black smoke and started to rev clean.
The manifold won't supply the motor with too much fuel if it's leaking??? A leaking manifold will create a lean condition by letting too much air mix in with the fuel.
Obviously if the plugs are soaking wet the carb is shaged somewhere along the line and letting way too much fuel pass through it. No need to take the motor apart, just throw that thermaquad over the neighbours fence were it belongs LOL, bit late now though?

 

Well its my excuse to change my heads, as i need to change the gaskets and my heads are nackerd. Real Noisy.

i got a regrind kit today consisting of headgaskets, exhaust gaskets, etc

There was only 2 inlet Manafold gaskets. If i use the metal pan gasket, what side should i use the manafold gaskets? also is it real nessasary to use the metal pan?

 

Well its my excuse to change my heads, as i need to change the gaskets and my heads are nackerd. Real Noisy.

i got a regrind kit today consisting of headgaskets, exhaust gaskets, etc

There was only 2 inlet Manafold gaskets. If i use the metal pan gasket, what side should i use the manafold gaskets? also is it real nessasary to use the metal pan?

Ok that's cool if ya gotta change the heads anyhow
Not 100% sure but....
I think the factory metal pan only uses gaskets to seal the front/rear ends that are made of cork (or) rubber and have no gaskets on the sides, i could be wrong though?
The metal pan gasket is ment to keep hot oil from splashing up onto the bottom of the intake manifold. By doing this it's ment to stop the manifold getting hot and keep the fuel/air charge cool (sounds good in theory).
Personally i've seen plenty of 302's, 351's runnig without one with no problems, it's up to you.
You should of got 2 side paper gaskets and 2 end seals with you kit, you can use these to seal the manifold without the pan.
If you wan't to use the pan, fel-pro sells them brand new, they also come with all the gaskets/silcone you need.
You can order them from any new car parts place, autopro, autobarn, motormate blah blah.

 

Thanks Clevo Junky, Im not going to use it since its got 20yrs worth of old baked on oil on the bottom of it. Yes the Kit came with rubber gaskets for the front and back along with paper ones for the sides. Thanks for the help

 

Yeah that's all you need really, just make sure you use a medium smear of silicone on both sides of the paper/rubber gaskets and where they join.
If your manifold is really dirty, you can take it to most head reco places and get them to bead blast it for you. I had my stock 302 intake manifold blasted, it came back with not 1 spec of carbon/paint left inside or out, just shiny bare metal and only cost me $15 to have done. I also had my stock exhaust manifolds done, same result.

Good luck!