I have just purchased a sprint and theres a few things it needs to have fitted It has the standard spoiler kit except for the little bob tail spoiler on the boot it has the ed xr spoiler which is 2 inchs high, ford tells me there $900 for the bob tail one so im going to keep the one it has. Its missing the spoiler on the front bumper and ford tells me you cant get them any more. What I want to know is there any where you can get spoilers that look like the originals from a aftermarket company? The car gets a bad vibration in gear at around 4500rpm I am thinking its the clutch, has anyone had the same problem? It also has a sort of flutter in the engine heard at idle and low end rpms I am thinking of changing the plug leads as they look like the standard ones on there are the genuine ones the best for the car or aftermarket ones better? Thanks for your help.
sprint lover
Mate,
Welcome to the Sprint club.
More info and pics needed... (Colour, km traveled, options etc)
Have a look at this thread that I started recently.
http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=97847
I also have a vibration at the same sort of RPM as you but have not spent much time looking for it..
Is yours a manual or Auto???
If you want to get some more info re the car. You can contact FPV and they will have a look in the system and see what options it left the factory with etc.
Welcome to the Sprint club.
More info and pics needed... (Colour, km traveled, options etc)
Have a look at this thread that I started recently.
http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=97847
I also have a vibration at the same sort of RPM as you but have not spent much time looking for it..
Is yours a manual or Auto???
If you want to get some more info re the car. You can contact FPV and they will have a look in the system and see what options it left the factory with etc.
my sprint is black, manual, 18inch rims on it also have 5 origianal rims the car has 139 000 on the clock its 02/1994 model. I had been looking for a black one for about 12 months and this one turned up on ebay and was only 2 hours from me for $14500.
It has no cruise but I bought a steering wheel with the spots for cruise from ebay i have just ordered the cruise buttons from ford the other day 80 bucks each now all i have to do is find the rest of the bits needed
It has no cruise but I bought a steering wheel with the spots for cruise from ebay i have just ordered the cruise buttons from ford the other day 80 bucks each now all i have to do is find the rest of the bits needed
Jonathan72,
Mate,
Thanks for that. I would no have thought of the harmonic Balancer until after the fly wheel / clutch and or the uni's.. Any suggestions of what I need to look for? Could there be cracks in the balancer?
Look forward to your response...
Mate,
Thanks for that. I would no have thought of the harmonic Balancer until after the fly wheel / clutch and or the uni's.. Any suggestions of what I need to look for? Could there be cracks in the balancer?
Look forward to your response...
Its going to be difficult to inspect on the car......
In fact, even off the car you may not see anything, as the outer ring may have slipped or the rubber may have just gone bad.
Engine harmonics is a science in itself and my expeience is that even an incorrectly torqued balancer can cause torsional vibration concerns.
Without sounding negative - the late model Windsor manufacturing tolerances are nowhere near as consistent as the local six cylinder engines.
Like I said, we broke a crankshaft on a brand new car - so for the time being I would avoid the rev range that is causing the vibration.
In fact, even off the car you may not see anything, as the outer ring may have slipped or the rubber may have just gone bad.
Engine harmonics is a science in itself and my expeience is that even an incorrectly torqued balancer can cause torsional vibration concerns.
Without sounding negative - the late model Windsor manufacturing tolerances are nowhere near as consistent as the local six cylinder engines.
Like I said, we broke a crankshaft on a brand new car - so for the time being I would avoid the rev range that is causing the vibration.
Thanks for that...
Given that the sprint engine spins up real quick and mate'ed to the close ratio gear box it is hard to keep it under the 4500rpm limit suggested. I will put the car up on a hoist in the next week or so to check the Uni's and the balancer and see if I can find anything. Hopefully it is a Uni issue.....
Given that the sprint engine spins up real quick and mate'ed to the close ratio gear box it is hard to keep it under the 4500rpm limit suggested. I will put the car up on a hoist in the next week or so to check the Uni's and the balancer and see if I can find anything. Hopefully it is a Uni issue.....
Jonathan72,
The vibration seems to be RPM related not road speed related in all gears.. (well 1st, 2nd anyway) Have not run it fast enough (in the few weeks i have had it) to see if it happens in 3rd, 4th, 5th. I have not had a chance to check the Unis. my car is a manual.
The vibration seems to be RPM related not road speed related in all gears.. (well 1st, 2nd anyway) Have not run it fast enough (in the few weeks i have had it) to see if it happens in 3rd, 4th, 5th. I have not had a chance to check the Unis. my car is a manual.
Jonathan,
OK thanks. That is what I thought. I didnt think it was the uni's..
I will check it out..
Just on the cylinder balance test.. How is this done?
OK thanks. That is what I thought. I didnt think it was the uni's..
I will check it out..
Just on the cylinder balance test.. How is this done?
The proper way is with a scan tool at a Ford dealer.
The old fashion way is with an accurate tacho and unplugging each of the injectors one at a time.
What you are looking for is an even rpm drop as each injector is unplugged. This indicates that each cylinder is doing it's share of work. If one cylinder is not dropping as many rpm as the other seven, then that cylinder is lazy.
Turn off the A/C first.
Once the car is warm, hold the throttle open at about 2500 rpm. Now disconnect the ISC valve. You may have to open the throttle a little more to maintain 2500rpm. You will need to prop something in place under the bonnet to hold the throttle steady.
If you do this test without disconnecting the ISC, the EEC module will try and compensate every time you unplug an injector and the test will not work.
The old fashion way is with an accurate tacho and unplugging each of the injectors one at a time.
What you are looking for is an even rpm drop as each injector is unplugged. This indicates that each cylinder is doing it's share of work. If one cylinder is not dropping as many rpm as the other seven, then that cylinder is lazy.
Turn off the A/C first.
Once the car is warm, hold the throttle open at about 2500 rpm. Now disconnect the ISC valve. You may have to open the throttle a little more to maintain 2500rpm. You will need to prop something in place under the bonnet to hold the throttle steady.
If you do this test without disconnecting the ISC, the EEC module will try and compensate every time you unplug an injector and the test will not work.
Jonathan,
OK last dumb question for the day. The ISC. I assume this a idle sensor? Where is it on the Sprint? Do I just unlpug it (wires / vacume) or do I need ot unbolt it. Where is it located. Sorry for the dumb questions. the last V8 I worked on was a XW 351W Ho with a nice holley sitting up on top.....
OK last dumb question for the day. The ISC. I assume this a idle sensor? Where is it on the Sprint? Do I just unlpug it (wires / vacume) or do I need ot unbolt it. Where is it located. Sorry for the dumb questions. the last V8 I worked on was a XW 351W Ho with a nice holley sitting up on top.....
Just unplug the wires.
It is located on the side of the throttle body. It is about 4 inches long, silver, round, with a flange on one side with two bolts going through it. It also has a little black plastic cap stuck on the side of it.
ISC - Idle Speed Control Valve.
If you are not confident, a Ford Dealer could do this test for you.
It is located on the side of the throttle body. It is about 4 inches long, silver, round, with a flange on one side with two bolts going through it. It also has a little black plastic cap stuck on the side of it.
ISC - Idle Speed Control Valve.
If you are not confident, a Ford Dealer could do this test for you.
Jonatha,
No problems. Thanks. I am confident in doing the test just need to bring myself up to speed on some of the acronims and where some of this gear is located. Thanks I will do the tests over the next week or so and advise.
Thanks for your help.
No problems. Thanks. I am confident in doing the test just need to bring myself up to speed on some of the acronims and where some of this gear is located. Thanks I will do the tests over the next week or so and advise.
Thanks for your help.
You can perform the cylinder balance test as well as read any diagnostic codes the car is storing by making a code reader and running the test. Buy yourself a copy of the Gregory's manual for EB-ED Falcons. It has complete instructions for making an LED test lamp. It'll only cost you a few dollars and a small amount of time to make.
Note that you'll probably want a copy of the Factory manual for EDs to get the codes for the V8s and notes on the balancer test.
Note that you'll probably want a copy of the Factory manual for EDs to get the codes for the V8s and notes on the balancer test.
Anakha,
Cool thanks for the info. A mate has the full Factory manual, I am guessing that the Factory manual does not have the test lamp how to. Will pop down to BigW and get me a Gregories one and also check the factory manual. From Ford, the factory manuals are about $150-$180 (or something like that)
Cool thanks for the info. A mate has the full Factory manual, I am guessing that the Factory manual does not have the test lamp how to. Will pop down to BigW and get me a Gregories one and also check the factory manual. From Ford, the factory manuals are about $150-$180 (or something like that)
OK now I have a factory manual. I checked the Gregorys and the test lamp is just a normal. 1.5V LED and a 860K resistor. (I think the resistor value is right. Now just to find time to do the tests..
Update.
I have managed to do some tests and get the error data of the EEC.
I also did a plug, plug lead, disy cap, rotor button replacement. I found that th plug on #1 was not tight and I was getting blow past. I have now retested it and the vibration is now gone (Yes...) It puls nicely now to 5000+... I did the engine balance test and all is well. Also I had what sounded like a lifter noise. This is now gone also. I suspect this was actually a exhaust noise coming from the blow past of the plug in #1...
I have managed to do some tests and get the error data of the EEC.
I also did a plug, plug lead, disy cap, rotor button replacement. I found that th plug on #1 was not tight and I was getting blow past. I have now retested it and the vibration is now gone (Yes...) It puls nicely now to 5000+... I did the engine balance test and all is well. Also I had what sounded like a lifter noise. This is now gone also. I suspect this was actually a exhaust noise coming from the blow past of the plug in #1...
Oh by the way... Dont go to Ford for the disy cap.. or coil for E series V8's. They wanted $200 for a disy cap. I got a Elfin (?) one from Autobarn for $15... Also a coil. Ford wanted $195 and Autobarn wanted $45. Also Elfin... So dont get ripped.... The rotor button was $6.. from Autobarn
Attn Sprint lovers..
There is a damn nice sprint going on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.../ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=102226&item=4557748220&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Low Ks heaps of options.. Nice...
There is a damn nice sprint going on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.../ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=102226&item=4557748220&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Low Ks heaps of options.. Nice...
Ah, Brad has finally got the car properly for sale. He was talking of selling it for ages.
The original short block was apparently kept in storage for much of the time to make sure it was in good shape when he sold the car.
Brad is also a fairly enthusastic driver (drop in to Oran Park some time) so if you're buying be sure to check the suspension bits for wear.
The original short block was apparently kept in storage for much of the time to make sure it was in good shape when he sold the car.
Brad is also a fairly enthusastic driver (drop in to Oran Park some time) so if you're buying be sure to check the suspension bits for wear.
Hi All,
Just thought I'd check in and say hi.
Dad has a 1994 Sprint. It's a Polynesian Green auto with 145,000K. Doesn't have the bodykit but it does has the five original SVO mags.
Mods include: Extractors, Large Bore Mandrel Exhaust (I think 3") and a conservative custom tuned Chiptorque chip. It's running around 155.2rwkw (Shoot_8). Ultimately Dad wants to port the heads/intake, add some underdrives and what else and try for about 200rwkw.
Aside from that the only other thing is that the rear bobtail was bubbled and it has been dewinged rather than pay Ford whatever ransom they want for it.
We looked all over the place for a Sprint, 4 years ago we even flew to Adelaide to buy a Sprint, but after some research adn help from Tickford we found out that that car was the Tickford mule that was raced by Youlden and some others (White EB in the AMC issue that covers the Sprint), it was really an EB Futura.
Very happy with the car, the only thing that rivals it in my mind is of course, the AUIII T series.
Hope to find out more and more about these machines as they're pretty hard to find much info on.
Cheers All,
Lumpy
PS:BDennis, its Lumpen Proletariat from the Turbo forum.
Just thought I'd check in and say hi.
Dad has a 1994 Sprint. It's a Polynesian Green auto with 145,000K. Doesn't have the bodykit but it does has the five original SVO mags.
Mods include: Extractors, Large Bore Mandrel Exhaust (I think 3") and a conservative custom tuned Chiptorque chip. It's running around 155.2rwkw (Shoot_8). Ultimately Dad wants to port the heads/intake, add some underdrives and what else and try for about 200rwkw.
Aside from that the only other thing is that the rear bobtail was bubbled and it has been dewinged rather than pay Ford whatever ransom they want for it.
We looked all over the place for a Sprint, 4 years ago we even flew to Adelaide to buy a Sprint, but after some research adn help from Tickford we found out that that car was the Tickford mule that was raced by Youlden and some others (White EB in the AMC issue that covers the Sprint), it was really an EB Futura.
Very happy with the car, the only thing that rivals it in my mind is of course, the AUIII T series.
Hope to find out more and more about these machines as they're pretty hard to find much info on.
Cheers All,
Lumpy
PS:BDennis, its Lumpen Proletariat from the Turbo forum.
Hey Lumpy.
Good to hear from ya.
Post a pic of ya Dads sprint.
Sprints for sale are still around if you keep your eye out for them.
What other info you after?
see here...
http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=97847&highlight=sprint
Good to hear from ya.
Post a pic of ya Dads sprint.
Sprints for sale are still around if you keep your eye out for them.
What other info you after?
see here...
http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=97847&highlight=sprint
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