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1984 F250 6.9 A/C compressor

4.5K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  CatSkinner  
#1 ·
Hi

i just bought this truck and it came without A/C compressor. When I looked online (ebay, rockauto,..) for the compressor there are some diferent types of compressors for it obviously. Could someone tell me which one should I buy?

Thank you
 
#3 ·
Complete system is there, but obviously at some time compressor failed and previous owner just removed it.
I looked on the net and there are two types of compressor, york and some other. York is not the right one, because mounting points will not match, so the other one is the only choice. I will just order one and try it.

Thank you
 
#4 ·
If the fittings were not capped off and left open, you've introduced dirt and moisture into the system. You're probably going to need more than a compressor such as a filter drier and orifice. I'll let CatSkinner explain further as he knows more about HVAC than I do.
 
#6 ·
That is an R12 system. Where are you going to get the gas to fill it ? The oil will also be
contaminated. You'll have to change that too. You can use REDTAC but that is not a very friendly gas to work with if you don't have the experience or just fill it with propane.
It can be converted to 134A but you have to use polyester oil. I dought a system that old uses an oriface tube. Most likely a T.X. If it uses an oriface tube you have to get the proper one. There are 3 different ones. They go by colors. If you have never converted to 134A before send it out. You cannot inter change compressors. R12 for R12
and 134A for 134A. You have to know what your going to deal with first. Good luck.
 
#7 ·
I have converted to R134 on my dodge van couple of years ago and it's working great. I bought a conversion kit that has all the fittings, gaskets and oil. I pour the old oil from compressor out and put the new one in, also cleaned all hoses, condenser and evaporator with brake cleaner, change the filter. Filled up with 80% R134 and it's working for two years now. I will do the same on ford.

Conversion kit for ford:

Image
 
#9 ·
Brake cleaner is an excellent choice actually, providing there's no software that will break down due to exposure. R-11 or R-113 would be better, but the EPA and the Federal Government kinda frown upon it. Just make sure you evacuate it well and as you pointed out, install a new filter.

I'll have to worn you, though, there is a risk of corrosion products left behind due to air and moisture. Foil won't keep that out. My truck's AC has been open since 08 and for that reason, I've abandoned it. Cut the hoses off at the fire wall and eventually I'll dig the evaporator out of the dash.
 
#10 ·
brake clean is never to be used as a cleaner in an A.C. system. That stuff dries out rubber and plastic material. The refrigerant oil is now cross contaminated and cannot
be recycled. Well not supposed to be anyway. You are now in violation of EPA regulations. Liquid freon can reach temps of over 450 F as it leaves the compressor in a 90 deg. day. Any trace elements of brake clean can convert to pure chlorine gas. any leakage in the system and you now have phosgene gas. COC12. You know mustard gas as in first world war. 134A is still an ozone depleting substance but not as bad as R12.
I use 409A for an R12 change over. No need to change the old oil. Direct drop in. 134A change over requires a minimum of 3 oil changes. Which nobody does and they wonder why the compressor oil turned black.
 
#11 ·
Sorry, Chipset, at 200 degrees, the pressure of the liquid would have to be over 500 psi to keep it a liquid, it might hit 250 degrees in a gaseous state with a pressure around 140-165 psi. R-12 actually will dry rot rubber and plastic quicker than brake cleaner (that is prone to get on the rubber hoses for the flex to the calipers). I totally agree with the oil flush, and that any oil left after the 4-6 ozs is drained will be contaminated. But, given the physical properties of brake cleaner, if the system is properly evacuated, it'll all be gone.