<rburge58@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:l9g561dk5mmttnvo17vhnfkcm7t1e7b5f0@4ax.com...
> 66 inline 200 coupe
>
> In the middle of a front suspension upgrade, working on one side at a
> time starting with the driver side. Put in the new spring perch, test
> fitted the shock and the angle of the new perch is too high on the
> inward side(engine) which causes the shock to lean to far to the
> outward side. The original perch was a Ford part. Placing the two
> perches side to side and you can see a difference. Is there anyway to
> change the angle of the new perch to match the old one?
>
>
> Richard


The new perch will work. It's straight because it isn't broken in like the
old one. When you reassemble the front suspension place a floor jack under
the spindle and carefully compress the spring without lifting the car off
the jack stands. You are using those, right? Then release the sping
compressor and install the shock. It helps to have the swaybar and strut
rods disconnected/removed so the front suspension hangs lower. This makes it
easier to install the spring. You may have to use a prybar and firmly "lean"
the perch to the right angle to install the spring. You need three hands, so
having a buddy help would be good unless you have a high degree of
dexterity. Use a quality spring compressor and always wear safety glasses
when handling a compressed spring. Treat it like a live bomb because theres
a lot of energy stored in a compressed spring.
--
Mark
--
I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?".

 

I doubt if this is your problem, but just to make sure, the tang that
the bottom coil butts against should be on the inboard side.

180 Out

 

Well I got everythng(99%) back together. Car is still on the
jackstands with one side done, but no shock in it yet, the
other(passenger) side is about done, wheel bearings have to be
repacked and shock not installed. It was getting dark and while
reassembling the bearings I mangaged to mess up the grease seal, so
have to weight till tomorow. The spring is in the tower but still
under compression. Those internal springs compressors are a pain to
work with by yourself. When you draw the tapered endlinks and ball
joints up, how tight does one normally tighten them?

Richard

 

<rburge58@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:dvn8615m9qe9faf98r2pvqu0dbu15cglbp@4ax.com...
> Well I got everythng(99%) back together. Car is still on the
> jackstands with one side done, but no shock in it yet, the
> other(passenger) side is about done, wheel bearings have to be
> repacked and shock not installed. It was getting dark and while
> reassembling the bearings I mangaged to mess up the grease seal, so
> have to weight till tomorow. The spring is in the tower but still
> under compression. Those internal springs compressors are a pain to
> work with by yourself. When you draw the tapered endlinks and ball
> joints up, how tight does one normally tighten them?
>
> Richard


You're supposed to torque them. 60 to 90 ft/lbs. Set the torque wrench to 60
ft/lbs, tighten, then check to see if the cotter pin hole is aligned. If it
is, install a new pin and you're done. If not, set the torque wrench to 90,
and turn the nut untill the next castellation lines up. If you don't have a
torque wrench then snug 'em up goot-n-tight. (German torque), about a 60 lb
dumbell curl, and stop when there's a sharp rise in resistance. I recommend
the torque wrench method and for goodness sake, buy a maintenence manual.
~
--
Mark
--
I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?".