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Rust repair, is it doable? is it worth the effort?

5K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  PulpFriction  
#1 ·
Hello, I recently purchased an E-350 van with 127K miles on the odometer. On the VIN data and title , it's listed as a bus. It originally had 12 seats in the back, extended body. I'm eventually planning to make it into a camper, but for the near future it will be a daily driver as I fix it up.

It's got pretty extensive rust damage from living up in New York state for over 14 years. I was tempted to say major rust damage, but don't think it's that bad. I'll include photos soon so you can judge for yourself. I've lived the first 40 years of my life up North (Pennsylvania, Wisconsin and Chicago) and I've seen and owned worse.

Most of the rust is on the rocker panels and lower body panels. The doors are pretty good and the frame is not too bad. I got it "as-is" because the gas tank had dropped to the street. The tank straps were almost nothing left. The owner lifted the tank up with rope and had the van towed home, where it sat in the yard for over a year until I "discovered" it.

I am currently raising and leveling the tank and replacing the filler tube. There is currently about two inches of old gas in the bottom. My Plan is to add about 5 or 10 gallons and see what happens. I'm sure that there are better plans out there so let's hear it. The fuel pump wires were disconnected but weren't damaged. and the connector went together nicely. I bought a new replacement filler tube at an auto store but it was too short and the clerk at the store said that it's the only one listed. I'm planning a trip to the junkyard tomorrow to see what is on other E-350's.The one at the store was over $60 so I won't be ashamed to get one at the junkyard if I find a nice one.

I've got a pretty good sandblast rig (80 gal. 5 genuine horsepower and a 2 stage pump) so I'm planning a lot of work on the frame in the future.

I will greatly appreciate any advice (except tow it to the junkyard). As Logan say's Never, never, never give up

Regards, Jim
 
#2 ·
Remember to change the fuel filter AFTER you have run it as it will probably capture ANY shit that has been lying in tank .Really depends how bad the rust on rocker panels is whether they need replacing but they are an integral part of the structural body of the vehicle and might be worth considering replacing once you get it sorted out mechanically ? But depends on how much usage you are going to do , if only local might not be worth doing .

Many years back ( because of circumstances ) I drove one for a while where the rockers were shot and I INTENDED to replace them . Never got round to doing so , but did spend a bit of time tidying them up with fibreglass and made to look more presentable .As they were a load bearing body component it was only a temporary fanny up .
 
#3 · (Edited)
My first car was a 1960 Ford Falcon and I did my very best work with Bondo, but the rust always won the day. That’s when I learned that “Rust never sleeps” My hope is that now since we are both in Florida, we’ve got a fighting chance. (And I don’t live near any salt water)
 
#14 · (Edited)
Safety first. Work underneath and make sure body and suspension mounting points are sound, as well as engine mounts and brake and fuel lines. If there’s corrosion inside the fuel tank or any chance of perforation, just replace it.

You could just go ratty on the body repairs, with unconcealed sheet of fiberglass and riveted patches, etc., then spray it with bed liner. It’s a 350. Go for badass, fun, and funny. Pretty ugly, not pretty. Then scrape away what you can of the underbody rust and undercoat the whole mess.

That is not a collector car. Making it pretty would be temporary and not worth the cost.