A poor ground can cause that. I don't have a wiring diagram for a 99 or I could look it up and give you some idea where it could be. Look under the steering wheel area and wiggle the wires to see if you can duplicate it.

 

I have a 1999 Ford Windstar with analog type gauges. A few weeks ago I had just started the van and was about a mile away when I noticed that the analog RPM needle rotated all the way to the right (past the highest mark) and the gas gauge needle fell all the way to the bottom. It looked like those gauge needles just lost all power and just fell to the bottom (like they were hanging there). They came back for an instant and then fell back again and then came back to normal. They seemed to function normally for the rest of the trip.

About two days ago, I noticed that the RPM gauge rotated to the right and fell to the bottom right again, but the gas gauge didn't move and stayed showing the same gas level. The RPM gauge came back and I didn't see it do it again that day.

Then today, I ran to the store and when I came out I had just started the van and I had driven about a half mile from the store and was only going about 30 MPH when the speedometer gauge needle rotated all the way to the right (way past the max markings) and while that happened the RPM needle fell to the bottom (this time it rotated all the way left and was way past the Zero mark). I was so mesmerized by the two gauges that I didn't really look at the gas gauge or the temperature gauge. I don't remember if they moved. Anyway, in a few seconds the gauges returned to normal and have operated fine since that time.

Each time this happens, I don't notice the car behavior changing (i.e. the car doesn't run rough).

My brother-in-law suggested that it might be an internal board that is going bad (maybe a short or an arc or something).

The van is pretty old, but has been pretty trouble free. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any clues?

Thanks!

I have a 99 Windstar that had the exact same problem. After pulling the instrument cluster many times, I finally figured it out. I pulled the instrument cluster and started looking closely at the PCB boards in it. If you remove the back white cover on the cluster (5 or 6 T15 screws), you will see 2 printed circuit boards. One is full size, the other is a smaller "piggyback" board. If you pull the smaller ribbon cable off the piggyback board, you can lay it over to the side, leaving the larger ribbon cable connected. I looked at the back side of the surface mount connector that the small ribbon cable had been connected to, and saw 5 or 6 bad throughhole solder connections. I used to work in a PCB manufacturing facility, and knew what to look for. If you look very closely, the solder connection should be shiny and smooth. Any cracks will cause intermittent connection. I used my soldering iron to reflow the solder connections (I did the back of both connectors), and no more problems. I went from gauges bouncing ever minute or so, to no problem whatsoever. It looks as though this connector, which is at the edge of the PCB, hadn't been reflowed properly during manufacture. If you're not handy with soldering on a PC board, find someone who is. In my case, this was a fix.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

Thank you for the Help Sholm

 

hi guys,
got a similar problem here... my 99 windtsar tach doesnt work at all and my clusters fuel, temp, and speed randomly freeze or bottom out simultaneously. since the tach is bad i feel it may be best to go to takeapart and get a new cluster... but would the other problem be possibly solved from a new cluster or do you feel this may be from a bad ground. when i tap the cluster thru the glass is often reaffirms and starts working again. is the short IN the cluster?

 

That's what it sounds like, in the cluster itself.

 

ok so i got a newer cluster from takapart and installed it in the minivan and now it wont start!!!!! need programmed then?

 

Yes

 

any idea on how much something like that is gonna cost me? it wont start with the original cluster now either. how can i at least get he old cluster to allow the car to start so i can move it to the shop? i unplugged the battery and put the new cluster in but it doesnt start. lol, wtf it ran fine with the old cluster???

 

It looks like you'll have to get it towed.

Alldata states:

Prior to removal of the module, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed. For additional information, refer to Information Bus.

Once the new module is installed, it is necessary to download the module configuration information from the NGS Tester into the new instrument cluster. For additional information; refer to Information Bus.

After instrument cluster replacement, refer to Anti-Theft or Active Anti-Theft system for anti-theft system programming.

 

hello... my friend took apart the original panel cluster because the all the gauges were working but the 4 way flasher kept flashing and would not turn off...so he put a used one in and car still runs but the gauges now dont work

then he took it to a Ford dealer who tried to download module info but Ford said the used module would not accept info...

now if my friend reinstalls orig module is there another way to fix the 4 way flasher from keeping it flashing all the time..?

now did Ford failed to upload module info from orig mod? Ford said it would not make any difference?

THANKS FOR ANY HELP ON STOPPING THE FLASHER????:beerbottl

It looks like you'll have to get it towed.

Alldata states:

Prior to removal of the module, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed. For additional information, refer to Information Bus.

Once the new module is installed, it is necessary to download the module configuration information from the NGS Tester into the new instrument cluster. For additional information; refer to Information Bus.

After instrument cluster replacement, refer to Anti-Theft or Active Anti-Theft system for anti-theft system programming.

 

OMG!!!! go figure... now im carless. thanks so much for the information....

 

but ive had the cluster out before and replaced it and the car started? what happened? in laymens terms plz?

 

I'll let someone with more knowledge answer that. I'm very limited in auto computer systems. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

Have you tried putting the old one back in? You could just plug it in and not install the trim to test it out. Does it crank over or cranks and not start/

 

no , the van wont roll over with the old cluster now either. i called ford n they said $85 to make a 2nd key so they could program the new cluster... not too badd... thx guys!

 

Thanks for the update

 

I got the same problem with bouncing gauges. Btw. also Windstar 99.
Post from Sholm inspired me to take my instrument panel apart and indeed a pin from the small ribbon connector was not soldered properly.

In my case the fix came a bit late. First I cleaned a bit corroded battery terminals which seemed to help little bit but not completely. We just lived with intermittent bouncing gauges for a while until one day my RPM needle bounced all around over the maximum and stayed there blocking the shift lever indicator moving to Park position. Without shift in Park it is not possible to remove the key from the ignition... So we ended up forcing the lever halfway and somewhat damaging the RPM needle.

But solution from Sholm fixed the bouncing problem. All gauges work as expected again. The tacho needle has tip broken, does not return completly to 0 when engine is off but still works when engine is on(maybe showing a bit higher RPM but not sure). Does anyone know what is causing it not returning to 0 ??
Do I need to replace the step motor or just re-attach the needle a bit backward ??
(I did not remove the needle so it is still originally attached).

But I can function with my repaired cluster. I did not have to replace whole cluster ($900+$300 at dealer). Thanks for the post!